Hydro Gear EZT 2200 Rebuild

Mike_Goad said:

from the pictures, you did a good job cleaning. however, you will have future issues of leaking. Hydro-Gear uses a black ATV sealant. in fact, they do have their own part number for a caulking tube of sealant. there is enough to do about t-axles per tube. these units run hot and the metal does expand. HG has only endorsed their sealant.
I do know people that simply went to the parts store and bought a black silicon RTV sealer that is heat and oil resistant and it worked fine. that is up to you.
another place people have leaking with is the seals. especially the axle shaft. there are key ways in most of the shafts that are very sharp and have been known to cut the seal. use protection, always practice safe sealing :laughing:
some kind of thin plastic card like an old piece of microfiche works great. at the minimum, use cellophane wrap around the axle shafts.
let me know how it goes.

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Thanks for the information. I will get some good black silicon RTV. Don't want to wait on HG or someone to ship their tube out to me. I would bet a lot of money, it is not a HG proprietary engineered sealant. Just a certain grade re-packaged sealant from a known company. I will also check the axle shaft. I did buy a seals kit, and installed all new seals, so I hope I have no issues there.

I have mowed my yard completely twice since re-re-building using a high temp black RTV. No leaks that I have seen and I am pretty happy with it. I had to do some adjustments to the levers, and have the left (rebuilt) lever fully forward with the right having to be pulled back slightly to go straight. I had the levers tuned pretty good before, but can't seem to get it dialed in. The rebuit one feels more "hydraulic" if that makes sense. It seems to react slower to input vs. the right one. If I had to put a number on it, I would also say that the rebuilt one is about 95% of the right one in terms of power at full speed. It does seem to get a little better as it gets warmed up. I do recall the hydros feeling more "hydraulic" when I first bought the mower, so I am wondering if this feeling will go away after a break in of the new pumps and center section. I did do a purge btw.

Overall, I am satisfied so long as I do not have any red flags pointing to future issues. I can mow my yard in one setting without overheating and needing a cool down every 15 minutes. I am going to at least do another fluid change on the overheating unit and might pull the side cover off to get all that suspected contaminated oil out.

I just took apart my Hydro Gear EZT 2100 transmission on the left side. I ordered a new center block because the motor side was grooved and wore out. i didn't think the motor block was that bad and put it back together but the bearing slipped on the motor side and It jammed inside causing the motor not to turn. Well I tore it back apart and it just scrapped the fixed swash plate a little bit so I cleaned up the surface of the motor block and pump block. Put it back together but it still was weak especially when it got hot! Well pulled it apart and realized I should have went ahead and changed the motor block out because it grooved the brand new center block again. The motor block is a little grooved and this is the new center section looking at the motor side. I have ordered new center and motor block and I believe I should be good to go now! This forum was very helpful thanks!

Thanks all for the info & the pics as well.

Well that did the trick! Mower is working good!

Just joining... I have a 2009 toro z5030. It was driving fine until I pulled the bypass levers to physically push the mower, then moved the bypass back to original position. The next time I went to use the mower only the left side would drive. Then both sides stopped driving. I tapped on the units with a rubber mallet and the right side drove forward only. I have removed the transaxles from the mower. I physically moved the bypass levers with my hand forward and aft and was able to turn the axle in either position as if the bypass is stuck. I drained the oil from both transaxles. One side had 48 oz's and the other had 44 oz's. The oil was dark with no metal in it. Does anyone have any information on this problem? Thank you in advance for your input.