CRAFTSMAN LT 1000 REPLACING STEERING DRAG LINK?

Specs. 2001 Craftsman LT 1000, 42" deck, model no. 917-271637

O.k. my steering drag link just came off at the wheel for the third time and its time to install the new one-part # 175121, which I have had on hand since early spring.
I keep the old one tied on with wire, but that finally quit working, it has to much wear and won't stay on, even with wire around it.

Trying to figure out an easy way to replace it. I can see it runs under the frame's right side just above the deck. I would like to replace it, without
taking the deck off, if possible. I cannot see where it is attached but can feel it. I don't have a lift, so that is out.

Anybody got any good ideas?

Thanks!

I have not done this type of repair on a rider but I do think you will have to take the deck of and it would be easier if you could lift it up somehow

No way in the wide world you will be able to do this with the mowing deck in place.
Even Houdini would not be able to get hands & tools into there.
By your avitar I am guessing you are not in the first blush of youth and can understand the reluctance about removing the deck.
However if you slip some lengths of 2 x 4 under the deck it wil be a lot easier as the deck will slide happily on the 2 x 4 and because the deck con not go all the way down you can take all the strain off the deck hangers,
The 2x 4s need to be 2 o 3 times as long as the deck is wide.

If you have some where to hitch a block & tackle ( or modern equivalent ) to pop the rider under the block & tackle, slip the 2 x 4's under the mower and dissconnect it .
Sling the mower by the front axels, drain the fuel & remove the battery ( to avoid spills ) , now hoist the mower till it is standing on its bum.
About 1/2 way up when you have clean access to it slide the deck sideways out of the way.

Once the mower is vertical, most will stand up all by themselves.
Yon now have clean access o the underside of the mower at a convienant height,
Check the belt, clutch & brake pulleys , steering bush and fan gear while you are there.
Swap out the drag links.
Then just lower the mower back down & before it is all the way down slide the deck back under.
Easy peasy.
I set this up for a customer who is in his 90's ( tough old bugger), using an old power winch from his old boat trailer & he has been happy as a pig in poo ever since.

PROBLEM SOLVED-THERE IS A HOLE TO DO THAT!

Thanks, all the ideas are good ones & would work. One issue, I have 22 stiches in my right arm-I had surgery just 9 days ago, so heavy lifting was out.
I can only use my left arm for now and very limited with my right arm use. I do have some age on me, but nothing close to 90.

After looking over the mower, a long, long time, (you have time when you are older and retired like I am). I noticed an hole (about 1 3/8" in diameter) in the frame, above the area where the linkage is attached.
It is about an inch or so, behind the left rear motor mount bolt. So, turning the wheels to the extreme left, moves the drag link bolt right under the hole. I had to use a strong flashlight to
see into the hole and I could see the 3/8" nut holding the drag link on. I used a 3/8" drive ratchet, 3 " extension, using a 9/16" socket which fits the 3/8" nut holding the link on,
but could not rotate the ratchet. It was hitting the oil filter housing and hanging up. My mower's old engine had been changed out from a 16 1/2 HP, B & S to a 16 HP Kohler Command engine,
which happens to have the oil filter housing setting right above the hole I was working in. I was finally did break the 3/8" nut loose but had to add a 12" cheater pipe to the ratchet to do it.
When the nut nearly off, I used a 14" or so long bar to hit the 3/8" nut to break the bolt out of it seat. The bolt seats somewhat like an automobile tie rod end. After breaking it loose,
I could not get the nut off, the bolt was spinning with the nut when using the ratchet. Looking at the bolt at the front of the drag link, it is just like the rear and attached the same way. There is an
1/2" flat on this 3/8" "trunion" bolt and serves the purpose of holding the bolt from spinning when remove the nut or tightening it. It's not easy getting the 1/2' end wrench in this area and I used
a long wrench of about 8" to get in there. It helps a lot if you are LEFT handed, which I am. There is a 3/8" lock washer under the nuts and be sure and put them back. I purchased new grade 8 nuts
and washes to be sure everything goes back together easy, the old ones had some rust on them and banged up from use. I would suggest leaving the front one attached, until you get the rear bolt out.
You can use it as reference to what you are working on the rear. Installing the new drag link, I put the rear bolt in its hole. Now I was ready to install the 3/8" washer. I took a screwdriver and put
it against the head of the bolt and use it the guide the washer, down the screwdriver & over the 3/8" bolt, working through the hole in the deck. That worked good. Now, time to install the 3/8"nut.
I took my left hand and worked it around from the bottom and got it started on the bolt. That worked vary well, but again, I am left handed. You cannot get your right hand in there. The front was
very easy to get off, except for the tight nut holding it to the axle assembly. I had to use cheater bar on that one, too.

ALL FINISHED!, like new, again. I had rebuild the deck, new spindles, pulleys, belt, blades and anything else it needed-before cutting season begin, this year. I just did not want to tackle the
drag link problem at that time bur forced too, now. It took about 3 hours to get it off and about 15 minutes to replace it. Most of that time was spent trying to figure what tools that would work.

I think these mowers are build with this hole to replace the drag link. I checked 3 other Craftsman's frames I have, a 1996, 1997, this one-2001 and my new one, 2014 and all have a hole there.
The 1996 & 1997 have a 1" hole, but the 2001 has a 1 3/8" and the new one has a 1 3/8', all located near the left rear engine mount hole. I see no purpose for this hole, other than to replace
the drag link.


Thanks guys for all of your suggestions & impute. You are the best.

The hole is for aligning the fan plate and holding things secure during assembly.
Good to know it can also be used for doing the drag links.
Sorry to hear about your arm, hope it heals up well.

bertsmobile1 said:

The hole is for aligning the fan plate and holding things secure during assembly.
Good to know it can also be used for doing the drag links.
Sorry to hear about your arm, hope it heals up well.

Click to expand...

This hole in the frame member of the Craftsman LT 1000 allows access to the rear steering drag link connection when the steering wheel is turned to the correct position to align it over the rear steering drag link attachment point. A 9/16 socket with an extension can be used to remove the 3/8 inch nut. A 1/2 inch open end wrench will also need to be used to prevent rotation of the ball joint when removing or replacing the nut. Make sure to place the lock washer under the nut during reassembly. The nut is attached firmly and will require an extension pipe on the socket ratchet handle to break it free. It pays to shop around for a replacement steering drag link. Online prices vary - but you should be able to find one for around $30. The total time for replacement should take 30 to 45 minutes.