PROBLEM SOLVED-THERE IS A HOLE TO DO THAT!
Thanks, all the ideas are good ones & would work. One issue, I have 22 stiches in my right arm-I had surgery just 9 days ago, so heavy lifting was out.
I can only use my left arm for now and very limited with my right arm use. I do have some age on me, but nothing close to 90.
After looking over the mower, a long, long time, (you have time when you are older and retired like I am). I noticed an hole (about 1 3/8" in diameter) in the frame, above the area where the linkage is attached.
It is about an inch or so, behind the left rear motor mount bolt. So, turning the wheels to the extreme left, moves the drag link bolt right under the hole. I had to use a strong flashlight to
see into the hole and I could see the 3/8" nut holding the drag link on. I used a 3/8" drive ratchet, 3 " extension, using a 9/16" socket which fits the 3/8" nut holding the link on,
but could not rotate the ratchet. It was hitting the oil filter housing and hanging up. My mower's old engine had been changed out from a 16 1/2 HP, B & S to a 16 HP Kohler Command engine,
which happens to have the oil filter housing setting right above the hole I was working in. I was finally did break the 3/8" nut loose but had to add a 12" cheater pipe to the ratchet to do it.
When the nut nearly off, I used a 14" or so long bar to hit the 3/8" nut to break the bolt out of it seat. The bolt seats somewhat like an automobile tie rod end. After breaking it loose,
I could not get the nut off, the bolt was spinning with the nut when using the ratchet. Looking at the bolt at the front of the drag link, it is just like the rear and attached the same way. There is an
1/2" flat on this 3/8" "trunion" bolt and serves the purpose of holding the bolt from spinning when remove the nut or tightening it. It's not easy getting the 1/2' end wrench in this area and I used
a long wrench of about 8" to get in there. It helps a lot if you are LEFT handed, which I am. There is a 3/8" lock washer under the nuts and be sure and put them back. I purchased new grade 8 nuts
and washes to be sure everything goes back together easy, the old ones had some rust on them and banged up from use. I would suggest leaving the front one attached, until you get the rear bolt out.
You can use it as reference to what you are working on the rear. Installing the new drag link, I put the rear bolt in its hole. Now I was ready to install the 3/8" washer. I took a screwdriver and put
it against the head of the bolt and use it the guide the washer, down the screwdriver & over the 3/8" bolt, working through the hole in the deck. That worked good. Now, time to install the 3/8"nut.
I took my left hand and worked it around from the bottom and got it started on the bolt. That worked vary well, but again, I am left handed. You cannot get your right hand in there. The front was
very easy to get off, except for the tight nut holding it to the axle assembly. I had to use cheater bar on that one, too.
ALL FINISHED!, like new, again. I had rebuild the deck, new spindles, pulleys, belt, blades and anything else it needed-before cutting season begin, this year. I just did not want to tackle the
drag link problem at that time bur forced too, now. It took about 3 hours to get it off and about 15 minutes to replace it. Most of that time was spent trying to figure what tools that would work.
I think these mowers are build with this hole to replace the drag link. I checked 3 other Craftsman's frames I have, a 1996, 1997, this one-2001 and my new one, 2014 and all have a hole there.
The 1996 & 1997 have a 1" hole, but the 2001 has a 1 3/8" and the new one has a 1 3/8', all located near the left rear engine mount hole. I see no purpose for this hole, other than to replace
the drag link.
Thanks guys for all of your suggestions & impute. You are the best.