Repairs Hydro pulls to one side when going to neutral with foward speed control lever

Walker MTGHS 1995 Serial #23429. as stated above when stopping the machine with the FSC the machine will bear to the right.
Notes: at some time prior to this serial number the jackshaft was changed and then at a later date, just the ground drive pulley on the jackshaft to hydros was changed, this was gleaned from walker manual 8895-1 under unique parts for the 20 and 25 hp models
I have used the ground drive aa45 belt which squelled like crazy and the 3v micro which also had some slippage (one side stronger than the other) I now have the correct belt on the ground drive which is a 7235 a double cogged belt.
The machine has been lubed thourghly, there are no leaks on either hydro shaft or control arms, the hydro oil was changed using straight 30w and air bled by rotating the hydro pulley. The machine was then run under a light load with the blades not engaged for several minutes, allowed to sit overnight, air bled once again and the cups filled to cold line.
The linkage including the springs on the control rods, the return spring on the handles, washers and ball joints are all in place and functioning properly.
The machine tracks straight on pavement, the drive tires are inflated to 15psi, the deck tires and rear tire also have proper inflation.
Note; It is understood that when going to neutral with the FSC that the right hydro goes into neutral before the left hydro, thus turning the machine to the right.
WHAT IS MY PROBLEM?
Thanks to all in advance

http://www.walkermowers.com/manuals/mowers/model-ms-manuals/5895.pdf see page 39 for neutral adjustment.

mechanic mark said:

http://www.walkermowers.com/manuals/mowers/model-ms-manuals/5895.pdf see page 39 for neutral adjustment.

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Thanks, but the Neutral adjustment clearly states "If both tires are either moving forward or backward adjust the neutral".
I have made this adjustment by jacking the drive wheels off the ground then bringing both wheel to neutral with the adjustment you have suggested. Am I missing something with this adjustment. Can adjustment be made to the drive tires independently?
Thanks again as I am looking for any solutions to this problem I'm having.
Anyone else out there ever have this problem?

You got it 1/2 way right.
You need to have a load on the motors to do the adjustments properly.
So it is either apply the brake is possible or adjust a little test, then readjust & test, at infinitum till you get it right.
First time I did a ZTR, I did it on stands & it was working perfectly.
On the ground it started doing those decreasing radius turns till eventually you dissapear up your own clacker.
Unfortunatly for some I stopped before that so nor it is run, adjust, run, adjust, run, adjust or just live with it.
Having gotten a bit smarter I no longer adjust hydros as part of a routine service unless asked to do so by the customer or the mal adjustment is dangerious or causing operating problems .

bertsmobile1 said:

You got it 1/2 way right.
You need to have a load on the motors to do the adjustments properly.
So it is either apply the brake is possible or adjust a little test, then readjust & test, at infinitum till you get it right.
First time I did a ZTR, I did it on stands & it was working perfectly.
On the ground it started doing those decreasing radius turns till eventually you dissapear up your own clacker.
Unfortunatly for some I stopped before that so nor it is run, adjust, run, adjust, run, adjust or just live with it.
Having gotten a bit smarter I no longer adjust hydros as part of a routine service unless asked to do so by the customer or the mal adjustment is dangerious or causing operating problems .

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There was a load while doing the neutral adjustment as both wheels were rotating forward equaling a load, until neutral was found (no load). Thanks for the input.
Keep the diagnosis coming everyone

Wheels rotating in free air is not a hydaulic load.

bertsmobile1 said:

Wheels rotating in free air is not a hydaulic load.

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Thanks Bert. I stand corrected.
But why does it pull to one side when going to neutral with the Forward speed control lever?

Because there is an imbalance between the left & right motors.
Most likely suspect is uneven wear in the control road left to right or uneven wear on the motors left to right.
From memory Walkers do have individual adjustments forward & reverse on both sides but they are not easy to get at ( what is on a Walker )
I have only 1 Walker in my repair run so I can not be considered a Walker man in any way shape of form .
We are just about to repower this Walker as my engine pallet landed yesterday. ( some where between now & Chrissy )

bertsmobile1 said:

Because there is an imbalance between the left & right motors.
Most likely suspect is uneven wear in the control road left to right or uneven wear on the motors left to right.
From memory Walkers do have individual adjustments forward & reverse on both sides but they are not easy to get at ( what is on a Walker )
I have only 1 Walker in my repair run so I can not be considered a Walker man in any way shape of form .
We are just about to repower this Walker as my engine pallet landed yesterday. ( some where between now & Chrissy )

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Bert, thanks for the input, I am now leaning as you say, uneven wear on the motors as they are indeed 20 years old, and I have replaced and or adjusted steering linkage along with new oil the hydros.
Today I just noticed the machine needs tail wheel bearings, but I think you are correct about the motors.
Will post again after bearings installed.

abrahah1 said:

Bert, thanks for the input, I am now leaning as you say, uneven wear on the motors as they are indeed 20 years old, and I have replaced and or adjusted steering linkage along with new oil the hydros.
Today I just noticed the machine needs tail wheel bearings, but I think you are correct about the motors.
Will post again after bearings installed.

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11:00am Eastern standard time New Jersey Wednesday 9/23/2015.

Bert, I would like to thank you for your correct diagnosis of my problem. In my experience their are few people who could solve my problem with out seeing it.
You go beyond that with your knowledge and insight disregarding my initial post of everything is good with the steering controls, springs etc.
Upon your previous email, your analysis of the imbalance between the two hydros, I took the Snow blower off, and pushed the Forward speed control lever forward, while looking at the hydro control arms underneath the machine, and there it was, the imbalance you spoke of.
One hyro control arm was returning to neutral while the other lagged behind momentarily.
Upon inspection, the turnbuckle nylon ball that connects to the steering rod to the hydo control arm was disintegrated, and the spring on the steering rod had walked past it's stop causing the imbalance. Also I still have not discounted the diagnosis of weak hydros, that will be seen in the future, as I have a 36 inch single stage snow blower attached to the machine.
After replacing the above parts, she now stops straighter than a Kangaroo!!
As for Walkers are a bear to work on you are also correct.
the bearings are pressed onto an axle tube and then then pressed onto the wheel rim, then a thru bolt goes thru the axle.
Of course the bearing on one side was disintagrated fusing the inner bearing to the axle and the thru bold,
it took my 2.5kg hand sledgehammer and some heat to get it loose, causing peening on the threaded portion of the bolt which I saved by dyeing it back for use.
As for the race that was fused to the wheel rim which I had to chisel out. It is all together now and rolling good.
Once again I would like to thank you, I gave you bad information, and you got to the root of it with an imbalance, where other could not see that.
Thank You Harry