New honda crank shaft bent: Hard repair for moderate user? Owner scrapped it.

robert@honda said:

Here's a simple exploded diagram of the key parts. Unlike some small gas engines, many Honda mower engines are a diagonal-split block design. They don't have a traditional cylinder head, but use a timing belt design, so still considered overhead valve and overhead cam:

For just a crank R&R, you'd need strap wrench and flywheel puller to get the flywheel off, but otherwise, no special tools really needed. There are some cutters and pilot bars if you ever get into valve reconditioning.

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Hi Robert, Could you upload this photo again? I could really use a decent diagram of the Crankshaft for my Honda HRR216VKA. Thanks!

atomlow said:

Hi Robert, Could you upload this photo again? I could really use a decent diagram of the Crankshaft for my Honda HRR216VKA. Thanks!

Click to expand...

These ought to help...







You can get paper copies (the HRR216VKA is quite lavish, 180 pages worth) from Honda direct via eBay or Amazon; free shipping.

robert@honda said:

These ought to help...

You can get paper copies (the HRR216VKA is quite lavish, 180 pages worth) from Honda direct via eBay or Amazon; free shipping.

Click to expand...

Thanks for uploading these schematics. I'm trying to decide if I want to try and replace the crankshaft myself or have the shop do it for $200. I'm no small engine mechanic but I've taken a few things apart before, but nothing like this. It's been a hard decision for me, 1. try to fix it myself 2. pay $200 to have the shop fix it 3. just bite the bullet twice and buy a new mower. I'm worried the engine will never be the same if it's taken apart and put back together...

Again thanks for these drawings it might make my decision easier.

I'm new to the forum, here because my Honda HRX217 lawn mower just had the blade impact a short stump along the lot line which caused it to stop immediately. This model has the blade brake/clutch. When restarting it, it vibrated a lot. Checked the dual blades, and one end of the bottom blade was bent pretty significantly. Removed both blades and restarted it. Still vibrated a lot. Didn't want to idle well either. Given it was the end of the lawn season, a drained the fuel and ran the engine until it stopped. Unlike previous years, the engine started slowing down then accelerating frequently as the fuel ran out, and a couple of times backfired. Never did that before, especially the back fire.

So here's my question - is it possible the vibration is not caused by a bent crankshaft (I did not feel any unusual drag when pulling the starter rope slowly), but the impact and instantaneous stopped caused the flywheel key to break, and given the flywheel inertia, caused the flywheel magnets (for the ignition timing pickup) to advance enough so that it would still run, but is causing pre-ignition and causing the vibration, and the backfire and poor idle speed control? Or is it likely I have both (flywheel key broken with advanced timing now, plus a slightly bent crankshaft)?

I was going to put it away for the winter, but was going to buy a new crank, oil seals, and FIPG (form-in-place-gasket) sealant with intent to change the crankshaft out, but now thinking about the very unsmooth idle and the backfire a couple of times when running the fuel out that I may have another cause not requiring a crankshaft replacement and need to replace oil seals.

Any thoughts on this?

The blades are used to help balance the engine.
Pull the plug out and rotate the engine holding the end of the crank lightly between your lubed fingers.
If the crank is bent you will feel it.

Stopping dead can do internal damage to the cam, conrod as well.

Thanks for the feedback, bertsmobile1. Sounds like the best approach is to just take the engine completely apart then and see what is all damaged. Will I be able to visibly see damage to the connecting rod and or cam, if they are damaged? Or might they just be slightly bent and not easily visible when disassembled?

To feel the end of the crank while rotating the engine, I'll need to remove the blade holder - assuming that is relatively easy by removing a single bolt holding it - or is it a taper fit requiring a puller to remove?

No idea about your mower.
Our government is not held hostage to creationists so they do not legislate trying to prove Darwin was wrong.
Thus we get treated by the government as if we ave more than 3 functioning brain cells thus all of the useless safety stuff that is manditory on US models is largely missing from what we get down here.
Our Hondas tend to come direct from Japan, China or the Phillipines & not from Honda America unless there is a total market failure when they dud models get dumped down here.

Freezn said:

Have you given any thought to re-powering the machine with a Honda GCV190? Another more cost effective option might be to re-power with a Honda clone engine like a Predator 5.5hp 173cc engine ($119)

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Exactly what I did with another Honda powered unit. Bolt up holes are exactly the same as it crank pto length. Kind of a no brainer for me especially with a 20% off HF coupon. I have 3 Pred motors. All are gems.

robert@honda said:

These ought to help...

You can get paper copies (the HRR216VKA is quite lavish, 180 pages worth) from Honda direct via eBay or Amazon; free shipping.

Click to expand...

Not to hijack this thread, but a PLASTIC internal engine timing gear? Anybody know why Honda would do that? That with a timing belt does not bode well for long term durability in my opinion.

Plastic timing sprocket (not gear) and synthetic rubber belt to drive the overhead. All good I guess. Personally, I popped two GC motors in the past 2 years and American Honda refused warranty on both. One was a rod through the lower end, the other was scrambled valves. Both replaced by cheap Harbor Freight motors. Hard to beat 99 bucks for a motor. Sent both the GC's to the landfill. Never an issue with the Honda OHV red motors. I have a decade old 13 horse that runs like a top.