Buying Advice Sears Craftsman PGT 9000 (Evaluation, Comparison & Experience)

RickO said:

Do you have any experience with doing a PTO repair? I'm not to happy about the thought.

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Have rebuilt/adjusted several other types... Newer ones generally do not lend themselves to rebuilding... Usually a remove & replace item...
That one you have should be a Warner clutch #5219-25, it can be a little difficult to remove, but definitely doable ...
Make SURE the clutch is getting full Voltage, a bad connection will cause them to slip, also a charging system that is not keeping up with the load... A poor ground at the clutch. Anything that keeps it from getting full current Can cause it to slip & that will quickly shorten it's life...

If you have damaged the clutch, replacement is the only good choice, about $200...
With any luck you may discover a low voltage condition Or a corroded clutch connection & ground, causing low current... :smile:KennyV

It's been awhile since I posted about the PTO. Here's the follow up along with a warning.

Last year a weld broke loose on the cutting deck. Sears came and replaced the deck. While installing the deck back on to the tractor, the tech attached the belt guard at the PTO. No big deal but....

The red and black lines that go to the PTO are right next to the screw holding the PTO guard. The tech installed the screw on top of the wires which crushed them and caused a loose connection. It was a low voltage failure as the screw shoulder was (almost) holding the connection.

The info I want to share is simply be sure that line doesn't get pinched when installing the guard. It is very close to that screw location.

Also I'll add; Do not stress that line when installing the belt. When the belt guard is off, the entire PTO assembly will spin. If you put the belt on and turn the PTO to get the belt to seat, you can do potential harm to the PTO connection on the unit itself.

Off to Radio Shack for some red and black 14 gauge to finish the repair. Getting under there is a giant pain in the <rear-end.> Tight for my fat hands and in a position that my body doesn't want to twist to. I could have called Sears to fix but I didn't want to fight the fight when they said that I did it, not them.

Help. Not as done as I thought. The harness was broken approximately at the point where the belt guard attaches but... The connection at the PTO, approximately a quarter inch off the PTO is damaged as well. Not enough wire there to make a splice.

I have two questions. First, the red and black wires go in to a plastic block on the PTO. Is that connection removable or is it a part of the PTO itself? Having a tough time seeing in there due to its location and my old man eye sight. The manual infers the connection isn't removable.

Second, I'm under the tractor trying to remove the bottom (only) bolt that attaches the PTO. I have some vice grips holding the shaft at the top to try to stop the entire unit from spinning while attempting to break this bolt loose. The vice grips just can't do the job to hold the shaft from spinning. I don't see any location to accept a wrench to hold and stop the shaft from spinning. Is the thread a standard thread, meaning counter clockwise to remove? Additionally, any advice or tricks to remove the PTO?

I'd hate to have to buy a two hundred dollar PTO just because of two wires. Worse is calling service to do the job for me because I can't get the bolt out.

The tractor is still under warranty however I'm not sure if they'd cover it.

Advice please.

Thanks in advance.

RickO

Rick, Not familiar with your model, but the stub ends of the wire leads sounds frustrating. I think you are right to make a bench job out of the repair. If the stubs have enough bare copper wire to solder, but not enough to wrap with tape try getting some shrink tubing. H Frt has little bundles in various diameters. If you have not used it the fix could go like this. Slip a length of shrink tubing over the wire lead you solder to the stub for the final connection. Do this before soldering. Keep the solder joint small enough to allow the shrink sleeve to slip over it. Use a heat gun to shrink the tube over the solder/wire connection. Hair dryer might work. Last resort a match or wipe quickly with solder gun tip. HINT: Since you may only have one shot CLEAN THE WIRES TO BE SOLDED. Use alcohol until no stain is seen on the clean wiping rag. I remember the routing is tricky off the clutch.

Yep. Agree but the wire off the PTO is less that a quarter inch. Not enough to left to maintain wire insulation at the PTO and strip to make a solder. ..and agree again on the shrink tubing. I rebuilt a 69 Camaro RS/SS. I've used ten thousand crimps, solder joints and shrink tube. (Okay, maybe not 10 thousand.) To put it bluntly, I'm screwed UNLESS the PTO itself can be rebuilt. Alluding to the plastic connection on the side of the PTO. The manual shows that it is a piece of the PTO itself. Of course that doesn't mean that I can't repair it but given the fact that I can't get the darn thing off it all becomes moot. I've entered a call for service and I believe it should be covered under warranty. (We'll see.) Meanwhile, I have 6 acres to take care of and the old White 42" deck is still running strong but takes FOREVER. Damn sight better than this new machine I'd venture.

RickO said:

Hi guys. I have about 4 acres to cut and the vanilla brand 42 inch deck/18hp wasn't cutting it. Pun intended. Just bought a PGT9000 w/a triple bagger at Sears for 2864. Sears Essentials is closing some stores and I hit the sale. This is a huge upgrade for me and even with considerations to the downsides, I'm pleased, (but haven't cut yet. I'm located in southern New Hampshire.)

My question for you is, the automatic shut off under the seat has five wires, G-Y-G-G-Y. Does anyone know what to do so the tractor continues to run when I jump off the seat to grab something? I don't want to defeat the tractor shutting down when I get off the seat with the blades engaged, just when it's running without the blades engaged.

Any input please?

Thanks in advance. - RickO

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step on brake and lift parking leaver left side , the other side is cruse control on my PGT 9000 bought in Canada and is made by huscvarna made in USA mar. 21 2012 with a kohler courage pro sv 735 engine