How to swap choke-a-matic over to manual choke

jln5685

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Im sorry if this has been covered, I couldnt find any information on my particualr sitaution.

I have a Briggs & Stratton 20hp Vtwin Intek engine, model 406777 Type 0442. I recently replaced the carburetor with part#791230, manual choke.

Unbeknownst to me, the old carburetor was a choke-a-matic and should have been replaced with part#796258.

The new carb works and the engine runs great except.....it wont start cold without me manipulating the throttle linkage. I spent half an hour talking to B&S and that is how I found out I ordered the wrong carb. The old carb part# wasnt even in their system.

Anyways, does anyone know of a way I can rig this manual choke so that I do not have to buy another non returnable carb. (Wife is gonna lose it) I was thinking I could replace the bracket control, or just run some type of universal choke cable.

Any ideas?
 

Fish

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Should be easy enough, as a manual choke is very simple to rig up. I will admit that I am not familiar with your original carb, so if you have any pics at all, that would be helpful.
 

Fish

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But first question, did you look up your own part number then order it? Or did you have a shop look up the numbers for you, then order it and sell it to you?
 

jln5685

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I ordered the carb myself. I could not find any info on the one that was installed, original, and B&S didnt have the part number either. I found one that had pictures and looked exactly like mine and said it was for my hp range. B&S says obly difference is my engine type calls for auto choke and not manual which is what I bought.

The old carb had a spring which kept the choke valve closed until throttle was pushed passed full and into choke, then linkage would open choke plate.

Pictures are of new carb mounted with a close up of choke valve lever and of old carb woth choke valve difference.
 

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Fish

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DSCN6225.jpg
I ordered the carb myself. I could not find any info on the one that was installed, original, and B&S didnt have the part number either. I found one that had pictures and looked exactly like mine and said it was for my hp range. B&S says obly difference is my engine type calls for auto choke and not manual which is what I bought.

The old carb had a spring which kept the choke valve closed until throttle was pushed passed full and into choke, then linkage would open choke plate.

Pictures are of new carb mounted with a close up of choke valve lever and of old carb woth choke valve difference.

Well, here is how the vast majority of the carbs are set up. Your throttle rod looks bent a bit though.

You my have to scrounge a little hardware, but it shouldn't be too difficult. I have posted a pic of a normal setup, the pics are the same, except that I have moved the choke lever so you can see what you need to set up..


DSCN6226.jpg
 

Fish

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Looking at your pix closer, it looks like the choke engages when the throttle control moves on up into the "start" area, no real auto choke there. Can you take a pic of the throttle control?
 

jln5685

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The throttle linkage was bent a littlr because it was getting hung up on the intake manofold. Now it moves freely and no issues. I wont be able to get a picture of the throttle until tomorrow. Im on nights and came in at 3. What exactly do you want, the lever near the stearing wheel?
 

Fish

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Well, the brand and the model/serial numbers off of the mower would probably help enough.
 

jln5685

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Mower is Ariens mod#960460011

Briggs and Stratton engine mod#406777 type#0442 B1

Sn#090909YG54643
 

Fish

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So you just have one control that covers the choke and throttle? Sorry, I just got back from buying a little johnboat,
I haven't tried to conjure up anything from Gravely yet..
 
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