Generator won't start

mystreba

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Hey all you small-engine gurus, I'm hoping you can help me with my generator. It's a 5kw Troy-Bilt with a B&S 1450 series 305 cc electric start (pull start also). I bought it brand new 3 years ago because we were losing power weekly, and - as is always the case with these things - have not had to use it once since I bought it. I've started it up occasionally and run it for 30 minutes, but today it won't start. I drained the tank and refilled with fresh gas. Charged the battery. Checked to make sure no varmints were nesting in there. It cranks and cranks but won't start. Choke on, choke off, no difference. Any suggestions? I thought about bypassing the kill-switch in case it went bad. Should I test for spark? Replace the plug? Spray some starter-juice in the carb?
 

bakerg

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Hey all you small-engine gurus, I'm hoping you can help me with my generator. It's a 5kw Troy-Bilt with a B&S 1450 series 305 cc electric start (pull start also). I bought it brand new 3 years ago because we were losing power weekly, and - as is always the case with these things - have not had to use it once since I bought it. I've started it up occasionally and run it for 30 minutes, but today it won't start. I drained the tank and refilled with fresh gas. Charged the battery. Checked to make sure no varmints were nesting in there. It cranks and cranks but won't start. Choke on, choke off, no difference. Any suggestions? I thought about bypassing the kill-switch in case it went bad. Should I test for spark? Replace the plug? Spray some starter-juice in the carb?
You can check for spark but I would not recommend using ether because you could do more harm then good. I could be your kill switch like you said. Good luck and let us know how you make out.:smile:
 

KennyV

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Choke it good while spinning it over... pull the spark plug and check if it is wet?
If it is your getting fuel, if not your not getting fuel
You can also check the plug or change it and see if it has any spark hooked up and laying on the head... :smile:KennyV
 

RobertBrown

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I'm guessing that you did not empty the carbuerator in between runs and the fuel sat in it for months. If this is the case it's a common problem and you may be able to remove the carb, disassemble it, clean it, reassemble it ,and re install it to solve your problem.
Did you leave gas in the carb for months or maybe a year? Does taking the carb off and taking it apart seem like a big deal? If so, take some pictures of the machine and its carb post them and we will get you through it. It's no big deal and you will learn alot about these issues for future reference.,
 

mystreba

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Here's the model number - 030343

This morning I started with a multi-meter on the kill switch. I'm no genius with a multimeter, but I figured that with the switch in the ON position, I should have full continuity from pole to pole on the back of the switch. But apparently that's not how the switch works because it was in fact the opposite - full continuity only with the switch in the OFF position. Apparently the circuit has to be completed in order to kill the engine. Interesting. So my plan to jumper the switch was not a good one. Just to eliminate one of the variable, I removed the kill switch and just let the leads dangle.

Next I pulled the spark plug wire, held it over the engine block and cranked. No arc. So I pulled the spark plug, connected it to the spark plug wire and cranked. We have spark.

I'm assuming then that I have to pull the carb as suggested and clean it out thoroughly. Any other suggestions?
 

BKBrown

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If you can get at the adjustment screws -- make sure you know where they should be set - pull them out and spray in adjusting hole with carb cleaner - replace to correct setting - put some Seafoam or gumout (or some similar gas treatment) in the tank -- crank a little so the treatment can get into carb -- let it sit a while - try it again. That may work without taking the carb off. ---- If I'm wrong someone will correct me :laughing: !

Here's the model number - 030343
I'm assuming then that I have to pull the carb as suggested and clean it out thoroughly. Any other suggestions?
 

mystreba

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If you can get at the adjustment screws -- make sure you know where they should be set - pull them out and spray in adjusting hole with carb cleaner - replace to correct setting - put some Seafoam or gumout (or some similar gas treatment) in the tank -- crank a little so the treatment can get into carb -- let it sit a while - try it again. That may work without taking the carb off. ---- If I'm wrong someone will correct me :laughing: !

I actually don't have the tools to pull the carb - requires some kind of reverse-star-drive. I did, however, pull the holding tank off the bottom of the carb and cleaned it out. Cleaned the float. Parts are a little gummed up. Will see what happens....
 

BKBrown

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If you got the float bowl off the carb and cleaned the inside and clean the jets (where the adjusting screws go) ---- that should solve the problem. Good luck !
I actually don't have the tools to pull the carb - requires some kind of reverse-star-drive. I did, however, pull the holding tank off the bottom of the carb and cleaned it out. Cleaned the float. Parts are a little gummed up. Will see what happens....
 

mystreba

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If you got the float bowl off the carb and cleaned the inside and clean the jets (where the adjusting screws go) ---- that should solve the problem. Good luck !

...and the plot thickens...

There is a spring on the bottom of the float assembly - it rests on the bottom of the bowl and ostensibly maintains upward pressure on the float assembly to keep it tight against the carb/gasket. When I say it rests, I mean literally - there is nothing to hold it in place on the bottom of the bowl, and there is nothing to hold it in place on the float assembly. Bottom line - gravity assists the coming off part, but hinders the going-back-on part since there is nothing to hold the spring in place. I've tried it three times now, and each time it seems as though it goes together correctly. But then when I turn the gas line back on, after a few seconds the bowl fills up and then the gas comes pouring out of the choke area. So something is not sealing back up correctly.

I believe the bowl is intended to be put back on with the carburetor upside-down, so that gravity will hold everything in place.

So it appears that I have to remove the carb after all. See attached image of the screws - is this "reverse star-drive " tool something that I can find at a hardware store? Or should I just haul the thing off to the repair shop at this point?


(why don't they just put drains on the bottom of these bowls?! @#$%!!!)
 

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RobertBrown

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...and the plot thickens...

There is a spring on the bottom of the float assembly - it rests on the bottom of the bowl and ostensibly maintains upward pressure on the float assembly to keep it tight against the carb/gasket. When I say it rests, I mean literally - there is nothing to hold it in place on the bottom of the bowl, and there is nothing to hold it in place on the float assembly. Bottom line - gravity assists the coming off part, but hinders the going-back-on part since there is nothing to hold the spring in place. I've tried it three times now, and each time it seems as though it goes together correctly. But then when I turn the gas line back on, after a few seconds the bowl fills up and then the gas comes pouring out of the choke area. So something is not sealing back up correctly.

I believe the bowl is intended to be put back on with the carburetor upside-down, so that gravity will hold everything in place.

So it appears that I have to remove the carb after all. See attached image of the screws - is this "reverse star-drive " tool something that I can find at a hardware store? Or should I just haul the thing off to the repair shop at this point?


(why don't they just put drains on the bottom of these bowls?! @#$%!!!)

Yes you can get and you should have a set.... at lowes or any place that sells tools.
My generator has the same set up but it has a drain on the carb bowl.
I suggest you go to walmart and get the B12 Chemtool carb cleaner, best I've found. You know it's good when it burns the cr@pp out of your hand if it gets on it.
Take some more pics of the carb on the motor and post before you give up. This is probably no big deal. Even if you have to replace the carb you will probably spend less than what the shop will charge.
 
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