I recently was given a 2005 Cub Cadet LT 1050 and upon checking over this tractor I noticed that the Oil Drain Valve was leaking. I purchased a new valve and noticed when I started to replace the old valve that it was not screwed in tight in the engine, I could just turn the valve out with my fingers. Upon trying to install the new valve I found that a socket would not fit over the valve so that I could tighten it in the engine, because of the two small pins that hold the cover of the valve on. Is there a special wrench required to tighten this valve?:confused3:
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Engine How to replace Oil Drain Valve on 2005 Cub Cadet LT 1050
- Thread starter gordy9
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Export threadDeerlane,
Thanks for your reply. The socket that I had was a 3/8" drive and it only went own as far as the nut, but in checking I found that a 1/2" drive socket is deeper and that will fit completely over the nut also. :thumbsup:
gordy9
Thanks for your reply. The socket that I had was a 3/8" drive and it only went own as far as the nut, but in checking I found that a 1/2" drive socket is deeper and that will fit completely over the nut also. :thumbsup:
gordy9
I was out of town for several days and just now got to try the procedure using the larger size socket. This did not work because there is not enough space to get the socket over the oil drain valve, you would need a socket that is paper thin in order for it to fit over the valve. On the 2005 Cub Cadet LT1050 the valve is on the right side of the engine and is just above the frame. It is impossible to fit a socket over the valve, because when you try to put the socket on the valve because of the location of the valve it is impossible to fit a socket over the valve to tighten the valve in the engine.
Has anyone ever replaced the valve on this year model engine? I guess that is the reason than my valve was loose and was leaking oil from around the valve! There must be a procedure to tighten this valve. Is there a special wrench that is available to tighten this valve.
Has anyone ever replaced the valve on this year model engine? I guess that is the reason than my valve was loose and was leaking oil from around the valve! There must be a procedure to tighten this valve. Is there a special wrench that is available to tighten this valve.
I have replaced my share. LOL
All you need to do is loosen a couple of turns the two 9/16" motor mounts on that side of the motor of the oil drain. Use a large screw driver to hold up the motor some to use the socket to replace oil drain.
All you need to do is loosen a couple of turns the two 9/16" motor mounts on that side of the motor of the oil drain. Use a large screw driver to hold up the motor some to use the socket to replace oil drain.
I have found that a 3/8" pipe nipple works very well for this application. Just have it long enough to come out past the frame, and install whatever kind of cap or valve you like to drain the oil.:2cents:
Hi yall . So what is the actual size of the socket needed ? Im having the same issue . This is a horrible design in my humble opinion .
Yes, the design sucks. A 15/16 deep socket will get it out but you might have to file off the pins that retain the plastic drain. Mine was not more than finger tight and could be started with pliers.
Go to Home Depot and get a 3/8"x5" or 3/8"x6" galvanized pipe nipple. The threads are the same. Apply teflon tape and put it in place of the original drain. Tighten with pliers or a small pipe wrench. Next, add a 3/8" galvanized 90 degree fitting pointing downward then add a 2" or 3" 3/8 nipple to that. Add a 3/8 galvanized cap on the end of that and you are good to go. Teflon tape everything. Just screw the cap off when you need to change oil next time.