ROPE PULL EASE

wfm215

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I'm unable to get a clear cut answer to a question regarding how hard it is to pull the rope pull on a new lawnmower. I have an existing Snapper P216012 propelled 6hp 10 yrs old mower. I take excellent care of it over the years but she's getting too hard to pull the rope to get started. I.E.; in the new Snapper line-up, the Honda takes 20 lbs of force to pull, the Kawasaki is 25, the Briggs 6.75 is same as the Kawasaki and the Briggs 8.75 is 35 lbs of force thus I'd opt for the electric start which comes on the Briggs 8.75 only. Comparing to my existing Briggs 6 hp from 2001, I would rate that bad boy at 50 lbs.
 

Two-Stroke

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I can't give a numerical answer but 50 pounds is way too high for a 6hp engine -- something's wrong.

You might check the starter mechanism. Remove it and see if it can be easily rotated when it's not mounted on the engine. If that seems OK try taking out the spark plug and see how easily the engine turns without compression (it should turn easily.)

Also -- make sure that the drive mechanism (for the wheels -- if it's self-propelled) is disengaging fully.
 

JDgreen

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I can't give a numerical answer but 50 pounds is way too high for a 6hp engine -- something's wrong.

You might check the starter mechanism. Remove it and see if it can be easily rotated when it's not mounted on the engine. If that seems OK try taking out the spark plug and see how easily the engine turns without compression (it should turn easily.)

Also -- make sure that the drive mechanism (for the wheels -- if it's self-propelled) is disengaging fully.

Good reply...and I am wondering if the mechanism that shuts the engine off when you release the handlebar control is dragging or out of adjustment. A few years back I had an older Craftsman mower that had that problem, I am not sure exactly how it works, could be a compression release system on the engine, but it was almost impossible to pull start until I replaced the stretched cable from the handlebar control to the engine. I could pull start it but it took a HUGE amount of effort. Try pulling over a mower starter handle without squeezing the bail, you will get some idea of what the problem is like.
 

wfm215

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two stroke and jdgreen. two excellent thoughts. i'm going to try these things out this weekend when the snow melts off the ramp of the shed. especially that start mech. also, i can rule out the drive wheel being engaged because i have to adjust the lower clutch cable spring from last year when i noticed slack in the line and the lever on top of the handle was to easy to fold down thus not enough propelling. that handle bar release got me thinking. that might not be disengaging all the way. i'm also going to test it w/o the spark plug in there. very good ideas. i'll get back to you. anyhoot, when it starts it runs very smooth. to give a better idea of how hard the pull is, if i forget to clear the shute on top of the deck when i empty the bag, i pull it half way and it stops, then i have to push down on the handle bars and back it up and notice a big clump of grass. then give it a pull and it starts. w/o any obstruction, it's about 1/2 of the clump of grass being wedge underneath to pull it. so there's something wrong somewhere.
 

JDgreen

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two stroke and jdgreen. two excellent thoughts. i'm going to try these things out this weekend when the snow melts off the ramp of the shed. especially that start mech. also, i can rule out the drive wheel being engaged because i have to adjust the lower clutch cable spring from last year when i noticed slack in the line and the lever on top of the handle was to easy to fold down thus not enough propelling. that handle bar release got me thinking. that might not be disengaging all the way. i'm also going to test it w/o the spark plug in there. very good ideas. i'll get back to you. anyhoot, when it starts it runs very smooth. to give a better idea of how hard the pull is, if i forget to clear the shute on top of the deck when i empty the bag, i pull it half way and it stops, then i have to push down on the handle bars and back it up and notice a big clump of grass. then give it a pull and it starts. w/o any obstruction, it's about 1/2 of the clump of grass being wedge underneath to pull it. so there's something wrong somewhere.

Yup, know what you mean, sometimes one of my pushers stalls when I try to cut grass that is too deep, and I can't pull the starter cord because there is a huge clump of grass built up under the deck...
 

wfm215

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Diagnosis complete and found something new. Here goes. Handlebar engaged does release flywheel brake completely. Regarding the starter, I can see small gap on left side, no gap on right side. Engaged handlebar release, flywheel turns relatively easy thru compression stroke. Removing spark plug, it gets easier all the way around. New - noticed user error installing the starter rope and pulley/spring assembly. Disconnected rope and counterclockwise cranked pulley and backed if off a turn and reconnected rope. Handle fully returns and pulls out easier. Primed engine several times and it started okay. Not bad for 30 degrees outside and not running for several months. Going to read up on proper starter position. Thoughts appreciated.
 

JDgreen

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Diagnosis complete and found something new. Here goes. Handlebar engaged does release flywheel brake completely. Regarding the starter, I can see small gap on left side, no gap on right side. Engaged handlebar release, flywheel turns relatively easy thru compression stroke. Removing spark plug, it gets easier all the way around. New - noticed user error installing the starter rope and pulley/spring assembly. Disconnected rope and counterclockwise cranked pulley and backed if off a turn and reconnected rope. Handle fully returns and pulls out easier. Primed engine several times and it started okay. Not bad for 30 degrees outside and not running for several months. Going to read up on proper starter position. Thoughts appreciated.

Thanks much for explaining the situation and your diagnosis, I am sure that advice will help a LOT of people...glad you were able to figure out what it was...:thumbsup::thumbsup::biggrin:
 

jteuban

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check for a rusty pull spring or maybe a bent valve, Or something way out there it could be the flywheel key. Cheers
 

wfm215

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Correction. Armature air gap is noticeable on left side against flywheel and no noticeable gap on right side. But flywheel does turn. Brother has similar newer model with equal .006 gap both sides and spins much easier than mine. I bought new tester and gauge. Going to test spark first and reposition if okay or replace and report back.
 

JDgreen

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Correction. Armature air gap is noticeable on left side against flywheel and no noticeable gap on right side. But flywheel does turn. Brother has similar newer model with equal .006 gap both sides and spins much easier than mine. I bought new tester and gauge. Going to test spark first and reposition if okay or replace and report back.

Really enjoy your detailed descriptions of the issue, I have been using push mowers for over 37 years and to be honest, never paid much attention to the flywheels of mine once I got the top covers off for one reason or another. But you can be sure later on this year when it's warm enough to be outside I will pay more attention to those kind of things. :thumbsup:
 
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