LA105 dead???????????

4audiq

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Jun 19, 2013
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Hi,
My 105 stopped running when I got off to dump the grass from the 2 bags and now,
absolutely will not turn over. I saw a 20 amp fuse and it looked to be OK. This thing is completely dead.
When I turn the key, nothing happens.
Any suggestions?
 

BBO

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I saw a 20 amp fuse and it looked to be OK. This thing is completely dead.
When I turn the key, nothing happens.
Any suggestions?

If you do not have a meter to check the fuse, put a new fuse and see what happens.
Is it not just an automotive style fuse?
 

Rivets

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Here is a troubleshooting procedure that might help.



Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
 

4audiq

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I do not have a Multi-meter, but am willing to buy one if not to expensive. We live on our SS.
Any suggestions?
 

Rivets

Lawn Royalty
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They are not too expensive, but before you buy one try this. Many of the major auto supply stores rent or loan out testing equipment and tools. Definitely worth a couple of phone calls. Also, you might know an electrician, phone company employee, auto mechanic, who would be willing to help you out. Test light is cheaper, but a little more difficult to use in testing everything.
 

BBO

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I do not have a Multi-meter, but am willing to buy one if not to expensive. We live on our SS.
Any suggestions?

Auto parts stores, Home Depot or Lowes etc.
You can find one for $7, or maybe even less at Harbor Freight but I would not want one that cost less than $25.

Every household needs one just to check AAA batteries if nothing else.
Get one with a good instruction manual if you have never used one. (Some offer free online downloads of the operators manual)
Auto ranging makes it easier to use.
They will check AC voltage for home outlets etc, DC voltage for batteries/auto etc, and ohms for testing continuity for fuses, resistors, coils whatever.

Below is two examples. Fluke is one of the better names, but may be an overkill for your needs.

Equus Innova 3320 - Multimeter | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Klein Tools Digital Multimeter-MM1000 at The Home Depot
 

Jhon

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Jun 20, 2011
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I had this happen to me once and I found a plug loose. Check all wires and plugs not just the fusees.
 

4audiq

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Solution Found: Newbie Mistake.........................................

I had the mower blades in the "On" position, not the "Off" position.
Once I turned the blades Off, it started right up.
Thanks for all your help.
I did buy a Test Light & Multimeter from NAPA here in town.
 

Carscw

Lawn Pro
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I had the mower blades in the "On" position, not the "Off" position.
Once I turned the blades Off, it started right up.
Thanks for all your help.
I did buy a Test Light & Multimeter from NAPA here in town.

That's funny. Sorry
What I do all the time is back off the trailer engage the pto and the engine shuts off.
And every time I look to see what has stopped the blades. I do this once every couple of days. Then remember I have to push the bypass switch

(( cowboy up and get over it ))
 

BBO

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Re: Solution Found: Newbie Mistake.........................................

I had the mower blades in the "On" position, not the "Off" position.
Once I turned the blades Off, it started right up.

Well you needed a multimeter anyway, so something good did come of this.

Remember now that you need to occasionally add some gas to the tank...
 
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