LA 130 Ignition Switch Question

(apologies for posting this in a different discussion area... I think it better belongs here...)

Hi All,

I think I know the answer but just to be sure... I have an LA130 I bought new back when it was new and I love the thing just fine. But today when it finally quit raining after forever, I tried to get out and cut the grass and the mower wouldn't start.

In the past when it would not start I would tap the solenoid lightly with a screw driver or my closed pocket knife and it would shake loose. This time though I realized the maintenance reminder wasn't turning on. I went ahead and shorted between the two big posts on the solenoid and the engine turned over nice and strong but there was no fire. So I suspect the ignition switch.

Headlights would burn nice and bright when I switched the key to that position.

I removed the switch and tested with a meter between each terminal. I don't have a wiring diagram so I just made a chart. It turned out pretty simple and I think it means the switch is bad.

There are seven terminals on the switch. When I move the key to from off to Lights, terminals A1 and B are connected along with L and A2. When I turn the key to run, I lose the L to A2 connection.

I grew an extra six hands and somehow figured out that when I turn the key to start, I pick up connectivity between A1, S and B.

I never seem to get anything on the G or M post. It seems like that might mean some kind of ground and maintenance thing? Just guessing.

Can you folks help me understand if I need to replace the switch?

I thought about just ordering that and a new solenoid.

I've done more oil changes and babying of this thing than is called for, just in case someone wants to bring that up. I'm pretty good about that stuff if I do say so myself.

Thank you for your time and attention!

See my response at your other topic post.

It is very possible you do have a bad key switch, but just for fun check the purple wire at the start solenoid, with brake locked pto off and key on start there should be battery voltage present.....if not do a continuity test on the brake switch as the switch sits in ita little snap bracket continuity should be on the pins side by side either on the switch or off, if one side stays open its bad, same with the pto switch just inder the operator station (dash)

This may help you out a little..!

I appreciate the wiring diagrams and advice from everyone. In my initial frustration I must not have been holding my mouth right but I was able to get the thing running last night... then got rained out after about 15 minutes of work. But at least it is running.

I need to replace the starter solenoid but can get it to run with a lag bolt technique I seem to be pretty good with.

Again, I appreciate all the help. The wiring diagrams cleared the haze pretty well as did the rest of the information you folks provided.

Carlton