Adjusting clutch/brake on a craftsman 1 cyl. 19.5 hp mod917.28907 lawn tractor

Chrish · May 26, 2013

I purchased this tractor a couple of years ago and it has given me great service in mowing a two+ acer property. Lately, however, the clutch grabs at the the end of it's stroke and the brake does very little in the way of stopping. I guess that this has been a gradual process but I didn't really notice untill the problem became accute. I didn't get the manual at purchase so I downloaded it from Sears. The only referance to this I could find, advised me to contact a sears service center or other service facility. The only sears service center is over 50 miles away and there are a couple of saw/mower shops at 30 mi. and 21 mi., respectively. Does anyone have any any experience with this adjustment? On my 28 yo. johndeere, this condition was corrected with a partial turn on a bolt on the transaxle. If it is truely a complicated procedure, I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and haul it to the city but, this time of year, they'll probably keep it for a couple of weeks which will seriously hinder my mowing program. If anyone can advise me on this repair, Iwould be greatful.

Thanks, Chris

Ifixdit · May 26, 2013

Chrish said:
I purchased this tractor a couple of years ago and it has given me great service in mowing a two+ acer property. Lately, however, the clutch grabs at the the end of it's stroke and the brake does very little in the way of stopping. I guess that this has been a gradual process but I didn't really notice untill the problem became accute. I didn't get the manual at purchase so I downloaded it from Sears. The only referance to this I could find, advised me to contact a sears service center or other service facility. The only sears service center is over 50 miles away and there are a couple of saw/mower shops at 30 mi. and 21 mi., respectively. Does anyone have any any experience with this adjustment? On my 28 yo. johndeere, this condition was corrected with a partial turn on a bolt on the transaxle. If it is truely a complicated procedure, I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and haul it to the city but, this time of year, they'll probably keep it for a couple of weeks which will seriously hinder my mowing program. If anyone can advise me on this repair, Iwould be greatful.

Thanks, Chris

I'm not sure I understand what your saying about your clutch but in regards to the brake, it may need an adjustment or the pad may need replaced. If you pull the right rear tire you will have easy access to the brake caliper. There are two outer bolts that hold the caliper on and a center nut that you can give a 1/4 turn at a time for a full turn or two and see if it makes a difference. If so, great! If not you can pull the outer bolts and the brake pad can be removed and replaced if excessively worn. I have in the past slipped two small washers in behind the brake pad and tightened everything back up and that provided enough thickness to keep the mower stopped where I wanted it without replacing the pad. Good luck!

Chrish · May 28, 2013

Thanks IFIX,This gives me somewhere to start. On my old JD, a single adjustment cured both problems simultaionously. I guess I was hoping for another magic bullit. ;<)
The brake issue was my biggest worry as I have some hilly spots on my property. I hope you're not, and woun't be, having any tornado issues to deal with.
Chris

Chrish · May 29, 2013

IFIX, What I ment about the clutch is that the peddle only has 1/2 to 3/4 inch of travel left when the clutch engages. this often results in a small wheelie if I am not very careful about a gradual release.

Chris

Ifixdit · May 29, 2013

Chrish said:
IFIX, What I ment about the clutch is that the peddle only has 1/2 to 3/4 inch of travel left when the clutch engages. this often results in a small wheelie if I am not very careful about a gradual release.

Chris

Ok, that makes sense. It might be possible that the wrong size belt has been placed on the mower. With the mower off and the drive belt engaged, is it extremely tight? Fortunately no tornadoes right where I live but there have been plenty in the state.

Chrish · Jun 22, 2013

Well, I pulled the rt rear weel and disasembled the brake caliper to find that one brake pad was missing entirely and the other one was worn down. Also, the pushrods that actuate the clamping action,were frozen in the the caliper body. With the help of PB Blaster, the best penatrant I have ever used, and a pin punch, I was able to free them up,and clean and grease them. I called parts direct to order new pads and the rep had a hard time finding them. Finally, she said she had them and I placed an order. It came to $15.50 with shipping and was supposed to arrive in 4 days.
They eventually arrived 7 days later and my lawn was 5" tall in spots. I opened the package to find that instead of pads, I had 2 thin sheet metal backer plates for the active pad.(Only 1 required). I called parts direct and got a better rep who found the correct parts, discounted them,expidited shipping, refunded the first charge, and told me to keep the backer plates. Cost,$7.95. Meanwhile the lawm is growing. I went to the NAPA store and asked for brake pad material.No luck.Next, I went to an indy garage and was given a take off pad with plenty of meat left on it. I went home and chisled off the shoe material and traced out the sears pad. Luckily, This stuff hacksaws, grinds, and files easily. I glued the backerplate on the back of the active pad and reassembled. It felt like I had a good amountof pedal, so I put the wheel back on and took it for a spin. It stopped beter than it ever had before! I really don't know how the clutch/brake mechanism works but the clutch function seemed improved also. I topped off the tank,checked the oil,and mowed my 2 1/2 acres of "hay". I'll keep the sears pads for
spares.
Chris

Ifixdit · Jun 22, 2013

Chrish said:
Well, I pulled the rt rear weel and disasembled the brake caliper to find that one brake pad was missing entirely and the other one was worn down. Also, the pushrods that actuate the clamping action,were frozen in the the caliper body. With the help of PB Blaster, the best penatrant I have ever used, and a pin punch, I was able to free them up,and clean and grease them. I called parts direct to order new pads and the rep had a hard time finding them. Finally, she said she had them and I placed an order. It came to $15.50 with shipping and was supposed to arrive in 4 days.
They eventually arrived 7 days later and my lawn was 5" tall in spots. I opened the package to find that instead of pads, I had 2 thin sheet metal backer plates for the active pad.(Only 1 required). I called parts direct and got a better rep who found the correct parts, discounted them,expidited shipping, refunded the first charge, and told me to keep the backer plates. Cost,$7.95. Meanwhile the lawm is growing. I went to the NAPA store and asked for brake pad material.No luck.Next, I went to an indy garage and was given a take off pad with plenty of meat left on it. I went home and chisled off the shoe material and traced out the sears pad. Luckily, This stuff hacksaws, grinds, and files easily. I glued the backerplate on the back of the active pad and reassembled. It felt like I had a good amountof pedal, so I put the wheel back on and took it for a spin. It stopped beter than it ever had before! I really don't know how the clutch/brake mechanism works but the clutch function seemed improved also. I topped off the tank,checked the oil,and mowed my 2 1/2 acres of "hay". I'll keep the sears pads for
spares.
Chris

Great story Chris!! Thanks for sharing your story :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Adjusting clutch/brake on a craftsman 1 cyl. 19.5 hp mod917.28907 lawn tractor

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