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scag turf tiger
- Thread starter glomoore
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Export threadMad Mackie
Lawn Addict
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- Jul 11, 2011
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When posting a problem with any machine, it is beneficial to those that may respond to provide the serial number of the machine. If a poster would rather not post the serial number, then at least providing the serial number range would be very helpful. On the Scag website, specific machine manuals are available by serial number range and downloadable to a savable pdf file. The Turf Tiger has 14 possibilities of manuals all specific to serial number ranges, but not model years.
Most Scag machines have two fuses, one is in the battery positive to the keyswitch, and the other is in the charging system output which also goes to the keyswitch which isolates the charging system when the keyswitch is in the off position. Which fuse is burning up??
Mad Mackie in CT
Most Scag machines have two fuses, one is in the battery positive to the keyswitch, and the other is in the charging system output which also goes to the keyswitch which isolates the charging system when the keyswitch is in the off position. Which fuse is burning up??
Mad Mackie in CT
When posting a problem with any machine, it is beneficial to those that may respond to provide the serial number of the machine. If a poster would rather not post the serial number, then at least providing the serial number range would be very helpful. On the Scag website, specific machine manuals are available by serial number range and downloadable to a savable pdf file. The Turf Tiger has 14 possibilities of manuals all specific to serial number ranges, but not model years.
Most Scag machines have two fuses, one is in the battery positive to the keyswitch, and the other is in the charging system output which also goes to the keyswitch which isolates the charging system when the keyswitch is in the off position. Which fuse is burning up??
Mad Mackie in CT
Mad Mackie: I've been fighting a charging system problem on my Tiger Cub with the Kawasaki 19HP engine for more than a year now... I have replaced the fuse holders (the Scag fuse holders are problematic and not designed very well), I've also replaced the voltage regulator and the relay. The measured voltage at the regulator from the stator coil is about 32VAC running at full speed... however when I measure the output of the regulator, I get a NEGATIVE 25 VDC voltage referenced to ground. I find this confusing and little bit weird. I do know how to use a voltmeter, so it's not merely a matter of reversing the leads.
So far, your replies on various threads indicate you have more than a little knowledge on the Scag electrical systems.
In any case, when running at full speed, the battery isn't receiving the 13.5 or so volts it needs to be charged... when I measure it, I always read whatever the charge on the battery is (12.4 volts or less, depending upon the charge).
I've also cleaned the connections on the starter key switch, but to no avail.
Suggestions?
Mad Mackie
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Hi Darney,
A few suggestions:
Inspect and clean the engine to machine electrical harness connector.
Lift the control panel, unplug the connector and the yellow wire from the keyswitch. Check continuity between the terminal for the yellow wire and the battery terminal with the keyswitch in the on position. There should be good continuity in the on position and an open circuit with the keyswitch in to off position.
Check the machine electrical harness grounds which are connected to one of the engine mounting bolts.
The basics of this type of charging system are:
The stator puts out AC, half of which is the wrong polarity.
The regulator/rectifier blocks the wrong polarity part of the AC.
The correct polarity part of the AC now is pulsating DC and regulated by internal components of the regulator/rectifier and sent out thru a single positive wire thru the engine harness to the machine harness, thru the fuse in the yellow wire and then to the keyswitch.
When the engine is running, the charging system output flows thru the keyswitch to the battery positive, back thru the fuse in the red wire which is connected to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid and back to the battery for charging.
This type of charging system needs to be electrically isolated when the engine is not running as battery power will backfeed thru the regulator/rectifier and into the stator which will drain the battery fairly quickly. This is done by the keyswitch when in the off position.
Any interruption the charging system output to the battery while the engine is running can cause the regulator/rectifier to fail.
Trouble shooting the charging system should be done with a fully charged battery.
All this said, my spin on your problem is that you may need a new regulator/rectifier, but you need to check the rest of the electrical system to make sure that there are no other problems with continuity.
I have had to add a ground bonding wire to some regulator/rectifiers as the plate that they are usually mounted on can sometimes have a grounding problem where it makes contact to the engine, the R/R base needs to have a good ground.
Have fun!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
A few suggestions:
Inspect and clean the engine to machine electrical harness connector.
Lift the control panel, unplug the connector and the yellow wire from the keyswitch. Check continuity between the terminal for the yellow wire and the battery terminal with the keyswitch in the on position. There should be good continuity in the on position and an open circuit with the keyswitch in to off position.
Check the machine electrical harness grounds which are connected to one of the engine mounting bolts.
The basics of this type of charging system are:
The stator puts out AC, half of which is the wrong polarity.
The regulator/rectifier blocks the wrong polarity part of the AC.
The correct polarity part of the AC now is pulsating DC and regulated by internal components of the regulator/rectifier and sent out thru a single positive wire thru the engine harness to the machine harness, thru the fuse in the yellow wire and then to the keyswitch.
When the engine is running, the charging system output flows thru the keyswitch to the battery positive, back thru the fuse in the red wire which is connected to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid and back to the battery for charging.
This type of charging system needs to be electrically isolated when the engine is not running as battery power will backfeed thru the regulator/rectifier and into the stator which will drain the battery fairly quickly. This is done by the keyswitch when in the off position.
Any interruption the charging system output to the battery while the engine is running can cause the regulator/rectifier to fail.
Trouble shooting the charging system should be done with a fully charged battery.
All this said, my spin on your problem is that you may need a new regulator/rectifier, but you need to check the rest of the electrical system to make sure that there are no other problems with continuity.
I have had to add a ground bonding wire to some regulator/rectifiers as the plate that they are usually mounted on can sometimes have a grounding problem where it makes contact to the engine, the R/R base needs to have a good ground.
Have fun!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
Hi Darney,
A few suggestions:
Inspect and clean the engine to machine electrical harness connector.
Lift the control panel, unplug the connector and the yellow wire from the keyswitch. Check continuity between the terminal for the yellow wire and the battery terminal with the keyswitch in the on position. There should be good continuity in the on position and an open circuit with the keyswitch in to off position.
Check the machine electrical harness grounds which are connected to one of the engine mounting bolts.
The basics of this type of charging system are:
The stator puts out AC, half of which is the wrong polarity.
The regulator/rectifier blocks the wrong polarity part of the AC.
The correct polarity part of the AC now is pulsating DC and regulated by internal components of the regulator/rectifier and sent out thru a single positive wire thru the engine harness to the machine harness, thru the fuse in the yellow wire and then to the keyswitch.
When the engine is running, the charging system output flows thru the keyswitch to the battery positive, back thru the fuse in the red wire which is connected to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid and back to the battery for charging.
This type of charging system needs to be electrically isolated when the engine is not running as battery power will backfeed thru the regulator/rectifier and into the stator which will drain the battery fairly quickly. This is done by the keyswitch when in the off position.
Any interruption the charging system output to the battery while the engine is running can cause the regulator/rectifier to fail.
Trouble shooting the charging system should be done with a fully charged battery.
All this said, my spin on your problem is that you may need a new regulator/rectifier, but you need to check the rest of the electrical system to make sure that there are no other problems with continuity.
I have had to add a ground bonding wire to some regulator/rectifiers as the plate that they are usually mounted on can sometimes have a grounding problem where it makes contact to the engine, the R/R base needs to have a good ground.
Have fun!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
Thank you so much for the reply! Very useful information indeed. Will update mower status as I continue to troubleshoot. Thanks again.