2004 Scag Tiger cub 48" won't start/won't crank

lerner

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2004 Scag Tiger cub 48" STC48A 19KA / Kawasaki engine won't start/won't crank. It is older yet is kept indoors and has about 550 hours. This mower will now start about 1 out of every 40-50 attempts with the key. It SEEMS as if it has gotten worse. Since I've been attempting to troubleshoot it the past few days it used to start on about 2-5 turns of the ignition switch. I am just a very average shade tree mechanic.

Here is what I've checked. I have 12.8-13.0 volts at the battery. I tested the ignition switch per a you tube video? I have continuity and seemingly Checks okay (per the video?) I have 12.8v at the red battery cable at the starter and 0v at the small red wire on that same lug. I have 0volts at the green/white striped wire that is on the spade on the solenoid when it is attached. HOWEVER, With the key to "start" position when the green/white striped wire is removed from the solenoid spade I then have 12.8 volts??? When i touch the wire to the spade I have 0 volts??? Ive ohm'd out the parking brake, lever switches, and seat switch. Fuses are good as well. When turning on the key i can hear/feel the start relay clicking . I can start the mower by jumping the solenoid at the starter. I've went through the flowchart of diagnosis from the scag technical manual. It's lead me faulty wiring or connections. i have continuity and ground from the negative battery to the grounds on the engine/frame the black wire at the module interlock box, and the black wire at the ignition switch...I'm assuming these grounds are okay. I've cleaned/used dielectric grease most of the connections. I have not checked the pto switch but didn't think this was causing an issue as it has worked flawless.

It seems like its an ignition switch as it has gotten worse because i can run and park the mower and it wont start. Nothing on the mower will move and many key turns later it will then start. However the switch tests out okay. and it will switch key on power many consecutive times to the small green/white solenoid wire ONLY when it is unattached from the solenoid spade?

I really don't want to send this to the dealer only to have them guessing while racking up a huge bill. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!!!!

New input
from a new member: I had same "no cranking" intermittent problem. I had a 5 year old battery so I replaced it assuming it was bad. Wasn't. I changed the relay with no improvement. Relays can be bought at NAPA for $23.73 in WI. Scag commits rape in selling the relay for $110.00 plus tax. I noticed that when putting my battery charger in "jump Start" mode it would crank every time. I should have caught that sooner as it is a clear sign of poor connectivity. I cleaned all 4 of the limit switch tabs and applied dialectric grease. Same PTO connector. No improvement. Turns out is was corroded tabs on the two fuses. I cleaned and greased them and everything works good now. Thanks to everyone for your input. It was very helpful.
 

lerner

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The relay from NAPA is P/N: AR671
 

lerner

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New input
from a new member: I had same "no cranking" intermittent problem. I had a 5 year old battery so I replaced it assuming it was bad. Wasn't. I changed the relay with no improvement. Relays can be bought at NAPA for $23.73 in WI. Scag commits rape in selling the relay for $110.00 plus tax. I noticed that when putting my battery charger in "jump Start" mode it would crank every time. I should have caught that sooner as it is a clear sign of poor connectivity. I cleaned all 4 of the limit switch tabs and applied dialectric grease. Same PTO connector. No improvement. Turns out is was corroded tabs on the two fuses. I cleaned and greased them and everything works good now. Thanks to everyone for your input. It was very helpful.

The relay from NAPA is part #: AR671
 

scagman2

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Under the control panel that has the key switch is a relay that is the start circuit main control point passed the key switch. Purchase a Scag replacement for this relay as it had a diode in it. However you can use an auto parts store relay for trouble shooting. Another possibility is the seat switch, but check the relay first.
Mad Mackie in CT

Hey again Mackie. Forgot to tell you that the ignition switch and relay under panel were replaced 2-3 years ago. I do know that the relay will click under the panel when it is going bad or is bad. So the relay can be ruled out along with everything I posted on the other thread. Scagman2
 
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