Battery tender installation woes

JDgreen

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I went to Sears last week and purchased a pair of small 2-amp trickle chargers to keep my ATV and tractor batteries charged this winter. The devices are a small box type charger that plugs into a wall outlet, and they have a two wire pigtail that attaches to three different shorter pigtails that are connected to your battery.

The three types are: A pair of smaller ring terminals that are a perfect fit for my ATV battery, or probably most other yard tractor batteries, or motorcycles. It took me ten minutes to remove the battery cover on my ATV and attach the terminals. The second type is a cigarette lighter plug, and my John Deere has no lighter socket. The third type is a set of spring battery charger type clamps. For those not familiar with JD utility tractors, on most of them the battery is concealed behind the front grille, to access the battery on mine, I have to remove two pins, fold down the hood guard, raise the hood, remove two spring loaded D-tabs that secure the grille at the top, and raise the grille, unhook the headlight wiring....then I can access the battery. Since the lighter plug method wasn't an option, and the spring clamps would have to be removed and reinstalled every time I wanted to hook up/unhook the battery tender, I decided the ring terminals were the best option.

The ring terminals were too small to fit my battery terminal clamp bolts, even enlarging the holes with a Dremel didn't work. And of course the short length of the pigtail meant removing the grille every time I wanted to attach or detatch the tender. I finally cut the lighter socket off the pigtail, spliced it into the ring terminal pigtail with crimp connectors, and replaced the ring terminals with larger ones, wrapped the wire connections with black tape, then the whole assembly with split wire loom, cleaned the batery terminals and installed the now long enough pigtail. Guess what? The grille fits so snugly to the engine side panels there was no place to route the wiring...I ended up drilling a 5/8 inch hole thru the center of the grille at midpoint, feeding the wiring thru that. Looks great, works fine, but how does what should be a ten minute job take three hours?

And guess what? While getting the half inch wire loom at the local Meijers, I happened to spy a package that was an "add-on lighter socket...for about 6 bucks more than I paid for the wire loom and ring terminals, I could have added that socket instead...and it would have been so much easier and more convenient. :frown:
 

KennyV

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could have added that socket instead...and it would have been so much easier and more convenient. :frown:

You ought to add a lighter socket any way, they are very handy for other things...

Did you place a grommet in the hole you placed in the grill? Lots of vibration, the wire can chafe, shorting out... an in line fuse (at) the positive battery post is also a good idea....
:smile:KennyV
PS... there seems to be NO short, 10 min jobs anymore... :biggrin:
Battery Tenders are great...
 

Two-Stroke

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... For those not familiar with JD utility tractors, on most of them the battery is concealed behind the front grille, to access the battery on mine, I have to remove two pins, fold down the hood guard, raise the hood, remove two spring loaded D-tabs that secure the grille at the top, and raise the grille, unhook the headlight wiring....then I can access the battery.
... :frown:

That kind of design really annoys me. There are a couple of things on my Nissan pickup like that.:thumbdown:
 

JDgreen

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That kind of design really annoys me. There are a couple of things on my Nissan pickup like that.:thumbdown:

Actually, the battery location on my JD is probably common to many compact utility tractors, what with todays sealed batteries, most people rarely need to access them anyhow. Well, my JD came with one of the old type batteries with removable vent caps, it started leaking at 4 years old, so I replaced it with a sealed type from Wally World. I had to make a new hold down because the OEM battery had the hold down tabs at the battery base and the factory retainers would not work, but 4 years later the new battery hasn't begun to leak so the additional work was worth it. The OEM battery also gassed a lot from the vent caps and the fumes caused some damage to the sheet metal, but that was easy to rememdy.

Yeah, it irritates the heck out of me when I work on a vehicle and there are a lot of other things in the way of what I want to work on, I think they design them so people will get frustrated and pay a dealership $90 an hour for work, late last fall my '04 Saturn L300 began leaking power steering fluid from a hose by the pump, it took me several hours to get to the fifty cent hose clamp that had stripped and was leaking because there wasn't enough room to reach it...:mad:
 

Two-Stroke

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Actually, the battery location on my JD is probably common to many compact utility tractors, what with todays sealed batteries, most people rarely need to access them anyhow. Well, my JD came with one of the old type batteries with removable vent caps, it started leaking at 4 years old, so I replaced it with a sealed type from Wally World. I had to make a new hold down because the OEM battery had the hold down tabs at the battery base and the factory retainers would not work, but 4 years later the new battery hasn't begun to leak so the additional work was worth it. The OEM battery also gassed a lot from the vent caps and the fumes caused some damage to the sheet metal, but that was easy to rememdy.

Yeah, it irritates the heck out of me when I work on a vehicle and there are a lot of other things in the way of what I want to work on, I think they design them so people will get frustrated and pay a dealership $90 an hour for work, late last fall my '04 Saturn L300 began leaking power steering fluid from a hose by the pump, it took me several hours to get to the fifty cent hose clamp that had stripped and was leaking because there wasn't enough room to reach it...:mad:

I can't help but suspect that too. The other explanation is that the engineers put a low priority on ease of service.
 

stuckinnj

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Just thought I'd share my method for installing the battery tender link - if you need more lenght, use a 4 pin flat tow wire harness. You can buy then almost anywhere, WalMat, Advance Auto etc. They are not expensive and usually come with 3-4' of wiring. The better units have a mounting tab molded into the plug. Using the white wire terminal for GROUND & the BROWN wire terminal for B+ (Positive), the battery tender will fit directly into these terminals without any modification. I used this method on my JD and my F-250. Never have to open the hood.

For my RTV, I use a couple of them in the roof to make quick detatch connectors for accessories such as my Amber Fashing light when plowing, portable work lights, radio etc.

I have battery float chargers on all my farm equipment, emergency generator, Harley and Buell. It is amazing when used properly have they extend the life of a battery. I just replecaed the batteries in my F-250 (2- MTP-65) The originals lasted 8 years. I'm impressed.

Just thinking outside the box..........
 

Driller

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Can I say simply, 'better you than me'? <g> Seriously, that is exactly the kind of situation that gives me a great big headache and makes me want to go away on vacation!
 

JDgreen

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Just thought I'd share my method for installing the battery tender link - if you need more lenght, use a 4 pin flat tow wire harness. You can buy then almost anywhere, WalMat, Advance Auto etc. They are not expensive and usually come with 3-4' of wiring. The better units have a mounting tab molded into the plug. Using the white wire terminal for GROUND & the BROWN wire terminal for B+ (Positive), the battery tender will fit directly into these terminals without any modification. I used this method on my JD and my F-250. Never have to open the hood.

For my RTV, I use a couple of them in the roof to make quick detatch connectors for accessories such as my Amber Fashing light when plowing, portable work lights, radio etc.

I have battery float chargers on all my farm equipment, emergency generator, Harley and Buell. It is amazing when used properly have they extend the life of a battery. I just replecaed the batteries in my F-250 (2- MTP-65) The originals lasted 8 years. I'm impressed.

Just thinking outside the box..........

Interesting idea, I was going thru my parts bin of spare wire, and among the spools of wire were a few left over trailer light connections, I thought it best to stick with the colors commonly used for battery wiring, red to red and black to black, I would know that I had substituted wiring colors but what if I sold the tractor, or somebody unaware of the wiring color switch wanted to work on it? Great idea, though, using them for temporary hook ups for accessory items.
 

KennyV

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what if I sold the tractor, or somebody unaware of the wiring color switch wanted to work on it?

Nice to consider...
but anyone that knows what they are doing will always check polarity before hooking anything up...
Those that don't know, will soon learn why it is always necessary to check polarity with NO regard to wire color... :smile:KennyV
 
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