Fastrak parking brake issue

SoilGuy

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I have a 2004 Fastrak Model 926501.
When the engine is on (idle speed) and in control arms are in park position it will begin to slowly turn to the right. I here a clicking sound as it turns, getting faster the longer it is in park. If I put it in Neutral, it stops. Any Ideas?
 

DJH

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Soilguy I'm sure you have figured it out by now but I see you did not get any replies so let me help. Most likely you will find a toothed wheel on the hydro drive transmissions that has worn/rounded teeth. When the control arms are put in the locked position a dog drops into each of these cogged pulleys teeth locking its respective hyrdro drive from turning. Rounded teeth happen from throwing the control arms into brake or locked position before the mower has fully stopped. I replaced both of mine during maintenance to the transmissions as I had the same issue. It's a simple job and relatively cheap. Cheers.
 

SoilGuy

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Soilguy I'm sure you have figured it out by now but I see you did not get any replies so let me help. Most likely you will find a toothed wheel on the hydro drive transmissions that has worn/rounded teeth. When the control arms are put in the locked position a dog drops into each of these cogged pulleys teeth locking its respective hyrdro drive from turning. Rounded teeth happen from throwing the control arms into brake or locked position before the mower has fully stopped. I replaced both of mine during maintenance to the transmissions as I had the same issue. It's a simple job and relatively cheap. Cheers.

Thanks for the reply, and yes I did figure it out. Replaced both for 35 bucks.
 

ArmyAviator

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The parking brake gears will wear with time; BUT...so will the tension from the brake tension springs. Standing directly behind your engine, facing forward, you will notice two springs at the back end of each steering arm linkage; just look right down on each side of the engine as you push the steering levers out to PARK and you'll see the springs compress. There are hex nuts on the top of each spring; there should be just a slight compression of each spring so ensure that the brake gear is firmly held in place; otherwise, the mower will drift when the teeth are barely worn. Experienced post here. :cool:
 

Tom59

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Are these gears plastic? My dealer mentioned something about them lasting 6-8 yrs and he replaces them with metal gears. I'm pretty sure that's what he said. Unless I totally misunderstood him.
 

ArmyAviator

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They were composite; now they're metal, albeit some soft alloy. Lasting 6 - 8 years is frankly conjecture on his part; he has no idea how often you park it. BUT....those tension springs, SUPER IMPORTANT because if they're not tight enough to press those teeth firmly into the teeth, they just grind and wear....and you'll be back to see the dealer, brother.
 

Tom59

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They were composite; now they're metal, albeit some soft alloy. Lasting 6 - 8 years is frankly conjecture on his part; he has no idea how often you park it. BUT....those tension springs, SUPER IMPORTANT because if they're not tight enough to press those teeth firmly into the teeth, they just grind and wear....and you'll be back to see the dealer, brother.

He was talking about his experience with them. He has serviced them for 14 yrs he has some basis for guesstimating it. Wasn't like its cast in stone. He was being honest about wear items he certainly didn't have to say anything. I have a way of getting them to tell me the truth about things.

I'll keep an eye on the tension springs. Gears need to mesh properly , no doubt about it. He said the replacements are metal/alloy , not the originals. I'll take his word.

It's good to talk to people that have had them awhile they know the quirks. So thanks!

Oh' I'm not going to the dealer for service unless its under warranty. I grew up on a farm built a couple engines fixed a couple things over the years. My tractor and backhoe never seen a dealer either. I prefer my own work. Plus you learn what is where and why.

I'm the cheapest mechanic I know. :wink:
 

ArmyAviator

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Hi Tom; my reply to you was too accusatory; I'm sure your dealer is a solid operator; I try to fix all my stuff myself; there's so much information out here....even youtube is most helpful as you can nearly find a video to fix anything; I recently rebuilt a small Honda carb on a small dirt bike....carbs used to totally intimidate me...youtube video took me step by step.
 

Tom59

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Hi Tom; my reply to you was too accusatory; I'm sure your dealer is a solid operator; I try to fix all my stuff myself; there's so much information out here....even youtube is most helpful as you can nearly find a video to fix anything; I recently rebuilt a small Honda carb on a small dirt bike....carbs used to totally intimidate me...youtube video took me step by step.

No big deal .....he wasn't acting like at 6yrs and one hour the gears strip he just threw some number out there guessing.

I am not sure how good he is mechanically? No idea , hope to never find out , but he seems honest and he answered some pointed questions without getting defensive. That alone tells me he is square.

As I get older , I prefer to buy things well made so I don't have to wrench on them.

Should get my machine tomorrow....or thursday I told him no hurry.
 

rangid

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Bought my used 04 Fastrak this spring. Needed a ring job on the 16hp Honda to be able to use the mower. Used it all summer after I changed the rings without much issue till last week I noticed my left hydro weakening. I'm wondering if it's realated to the brakes as they seem disconnected from the drive handles somehow; the brake pad is always on the sprocket with virtually no indication it's haveing any effect.

I want to rule out the brakes before I start messing with the hydro but I don't understand how they are suppose to work from looking at them. The drive handles don't seem connected at all to the cresent pads; they don't move with the drive handle and I can't figure it out.

Can anyone point me to a video on how to replace or how they brake is suppose to operate?

Thanks;
Randy
 
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