toro 42" z4200 zero turn wont start.

diehardmason

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I have a 2010 Toro 42" zero turn (model #74360) that won't start. I've recently changed the battery, fuel filter, air filter, blades, oil, oil filter & belt. The starter engages but engine won't turn over. Not sure what to try next. Fuel is fresh & ethanol free. Engine is Kohler courage 19hp.
 

Rivets

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Give this procedure a try.



Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
 

diehardmason

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I think I wasn't clear enough on my last post. I have power, that is not the issue. When I sit in the seat and turn the key the starter engages, but, does not turn the motor to start. I am not questioning your knowledge at all, just trying to clear up my earlier post. I am leaning more toward the solenoid or a safety switch issue. When I pull up the blade engagement button the click sounds different than when it is down.

I am very electrically and mechanically inclined and have all of the tools mentioned in your post. Just need some direction
 

Carscw

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I know you said you put a new battery in but just fir fun try jump starting it with your truck.

If it was a switch the starter would not do anything.

Sent from my iPhone using LMF
 

Rivets

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Check the voltage at the battery with the key in the start positions. This will tell you if your battery is strong enough to start the engine. You should have more than 10 volts. The reason I posted the troubleshooting procedure is to make sure that we are not losing voltage due to bad connections or components.
 

Rivets

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Is this with the key in the start position and the starter engaged? If the answer is yes, then I would look at adjusting the valves or bad starter.
 

A_tank96

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Sep 29, 2012
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diehard,

I don't know if this will help or not, but I have the same mower as you, same model everything. Mine would engage the moter and it would turn over but wouldn't start. My friend pushed down on the seat while i was sitting in it, and it started right up. Could be the same problem, mine was the safety switch. I might just end up removing it.

A_tank96
 

diehardmason

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Threads
2
Messages
14
Give this procedure a try.



Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.



Ok tried each step
1. Fuses good 12.6 volts
2. 12.6 volts
3. No corrosion. All solenoid have power
4. Has power
5. Has power.
6. Ground is not long but circuit seems fine.

FRUSTRATED!!!!
 

Rivets

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What is the voltage at steps 4&5. If that voltage is not 10.5 or more, then you have a large voltage draw at the starter or solenoid. If you have good voltage, I would adjust the valves.
 
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