Craftsman lawn tractor starting problem

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bruceha2000

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paejkirk said:
Like I mentioned, the engine does crank before the battery is charged up - it just cranks rather slowly. It's my contention though that 12.56 volts ought to be enough to start the tractor. .
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12.56V isn't fully charged. Seems odd for a 12V battery, no? My 1995 MTD Yardman didn't start today, it was about 25F so not all that cold. Started last week at about the same temps. After I tried to start it to the point the starter wasn't spinning the engine fast enough to start, I took the battery out. It read 12.5V on my meter. I put it on my charger and it said 85% charge. Fully charged it now reads 13.7V. It is labeled as 350A, 275 CCA Walmart - Ever Start.

It is a sealed type so there is no water level to check. This is a used machine given to me by a friend last spring and the date "punches" on the battery weren't done so I don't know how old it is. I'm sure there are plenty of places in the electrical system and engine that could use looking at. Of course this sort of thing always happens when you freeze your fingers off doing them!
 
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motoman

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bruceha2000 said:
12.56V isn't fully charged. Seems odd for a 12V battery, no? My 1995 MTD Yardman didn't start today, it was about 25F so not all that cold. Started last week at about the same temps. After I tried to start it to the point the starter wasn't spinning the engine fast enough to start, I took the battery out. It read 12.5V on my meter. I put it on my charger and it said 85% charge. Fully charged it now reads 13.7V. It is labeled as 350A, 275 CCA Walmart - Ever Start.

It is a sealed type so there is no water level to check. This is a used machine given to me by a friend last spring and the date "punches" on the battery weren't done so I don't know how old it is. I'm sure there are plenty of places in the electrical system and engine that could use looking at. Of course this sort of thing always happens when you freeze your fingers off doing them!
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What caught my eye was your Walmart battery. I think I have the same batteries and they have two unitized rectangular black covers which may be pried up to gain access to the cells for hydrometer checking. Hope I'm right and it helps.
 
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Elias40

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I got another idea you may want to try. Very easy-

Start cranking the engine first, before putting the throttle control to choke. There is a chance that the engine's cylinder is getting loaded up with gas.
 
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paejkirk

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When you take off the valve cover, there are two valves - one above the other. Is one of these the intake valve and one the exhaust valve, and which is which?
 
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Elias40

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If you can see the intake runner (manifold) going from the carburetor to the head, that would be going to the intake. Usually the upper on a vertical engine.
 
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snapsstorer

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JUST A NOTE:
another problem with batteries is that a cell can sulphate(the plates get a build-up on them) and then it takes more amperage to give you the power you want. if you have a battery charger that has a 2 amp charge setting and built in trickle charger you might boost the battery output(amperage). it takes longer to charge the battery but the 2amp charging desulphate's the plates. somewhat like using a slow cooker compared to a stove top. the slow cooker heats the item slower therefore reducing the possibilitly of burning the plates, where-as cooking on the stove increase's the chance of burning one plate while the others are still cold.
 
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Elias40

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snapsstorer said:
JUST A NOTE:
another problem with batteries is that a cell can sulphate(the plates get a build-up on them) and then it takes more amperage to give you the power you want. if you have a battery charger that has a 2 amp charge setting and built in trickle charger you might boost the battery output(amperage). it takes longer to charge the battery but the 2amp charging desulphate's the plates. somewhat like using a slow cooker compared to a stove top. the slow cooker heats the item slower therefore reducing the possibilitly of burning the plates, where-as cooking on the stove increase's the chance of burning one plate while the others are still cold.
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Yeah, especially if you are using city water to fill your battery with.
 
Kodie's Lawn Service

Kodie's Lawn Service

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Change all fuses and the key ignition had this problem once bought a new key ignition and fuse starts great now
 
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Buckshot 1

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:smile: One problem I have found on these B&S inteks, is the rocker arm studs loosens up. Therefore affecting valve lash. No where in all these valve adjustment post, I did not read the correct valve lash adusting procedure for a B&S engine. Bring engine to TDC on the compression stroke and rotate the piston down a 1/4" in the cylinder, then adjust the valves. Problem being is locating TDC and 1/4" down. Therefore I would obtain The B&$ techincal manual for your engine and follow the procedure verbatim. Yes starters and selonoids do wear out. Don B.
 
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motoman

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Buckshot 1 said:
:smile: One problem I have found on these B&S inteks, is the rocker arm studs loosens up. Therefore affecting valve lash. No where in all these valve adjustment post, I did not read the correct valve lash adusting procedure for a B&S engine. Bring engine to TDC on the compression stroke and rotate the piston down a 1/4" in the cylinder, then adjust the valves. Problem being is locating TDC and 1/4" down. Therefore I would obtain The B&$ techincal manual for your engine and follow the procedure verbatim. Yes starters and selonoids do wear out. Don B.
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Buckshot, I have the Intek manual . It is not specific on TDC. I put a prick punch red dot on the flywheel at true TDC. It aligns with the leading edge of the coil body. I remove the plastic fan shroud to see it to adjust valves.

But as Rivets points out that may be overkill as the lash is constant over the so called "base circle" portion of the exhaust cam lobe. Isn't the important thing not to put clearance on the valve if it is starting to lift or is not fully closed? Plus make sure of compression stroke. When I took my Intek apart (newer) I found the rocker pedestals locktited and not loose.
 
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