Riding Mower barely turns once and doesn't start

hauker

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Symptom: My ca 10 yr old riding mower (Craftsman w B&S engine) turns over (barely) once or twice and stops before anything major happens (no firing, etc.) - it feels as if the compression is "stronger" than the starter.

Had this problem before (6 months ago), so I exchanged the solenoid, starter and battery (not all at once), played with lubrication (external) and starter fluid. Eventually I got the engine to start and run. I undid all changes except the battery - so old solenoid, old starter, new battery (4/12) and used the mower over the summer. I had the problem (or a temporary version of it) on occasion, but always managed to start eventually. I kept the battery on a trickle charger in between uses and the mower in a closed in shed.

For a few weeks now, the problem has reoccurred and I cannot get it to work anymore. Here is what I checked:
- Battery fully charged (per charger, as well as measured)
- Ground connections (solenoid & battery) are good (took all off, cleaned, reattached and measured)
- Removed air filter to remove intake resistance
- Removed plug:
. o starter spins engine freely (and gas-air-mix puffs out nicely as well)
. o Checked spark (have spark)
. o Removed valve cover: everything looks straight & clean, clicking away
. o Battery during cranking (with plug out) measures only 10.8V

FYI, the old battery measured okay, so did the first replacement in spring, but neither worked. This is the 2nd new one (returned the first and got a new one in April after only a week) and this one somehow worked (still not convinced it was merely the battery, though).

So with the voltage during crank, I hear you saying, " get a new battery " but given that I did this twice and this one is only 6 months old (and I kept charged throughout the year), I wonder if something else is wrong

I also set the charger to crank assist but to no avail (does not turn better/at all at that point). (and I am scared I fry my starter or charger this way, so I only did this very briefly)
And, I tried jumping the mower with my car but despite constant 13V (+) in the system, the symptoms remain: One turn and the starter seems too weak to go any further.

Could the starter have been my problem all along and it just miraculously recovered over the summer?

I could use some advice here before I replace the starter again (kind of a hassle), plus it's the last thing I can think off ... am I overlooking something completely?

thanks a bunch
 

natenkiki2004

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I've been going through some electrical issues on my B&S engine lately and found this manual/guide:

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/sma...18-46 Riding Mower/alternator_replacement.pdf

It's got all kinds of values as to what resistance, amperage and voltage should be for the starter, alternator and all that good stuff. It's possible your starter has high resistance or something. Maybe that manual will help you test the starter.
 

SeniorCitizen

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When you had the valve cover off did you see things that looked similar to this picture?
 

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Rivets

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SandBur has you on the right path. I'll bet that the valve clearance needs to be readjusted. Post the engine model numbers and we will give you the clearance spec. If you also post the engine series, (Vanguard, Intek, etc) I will try to post where you can down load a repair manual.
 

hauker

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When you had the valve cover off did you see things that looked similar to this picture?

Yes - while I am not sure about the exact contours of the head, the rockers, springs, pushrod and overall composition looks right on the money (same style and all).
 

hauker

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SandBur has you on the right path. I'll bet that the valve clearance needs to be readjusted. Post the engine model numbers and we will give you the clearance spec. If you also post the engine series, (Vanguard, Intek, etc) I will try to post where you can down load a repair manual.

It's a CRAFTSMAN Model #917270732 42 LAWN TRACTOR with a BRIGGS&STRATTON Model #311707-0132-E3 ENGINE. (at least I always believed it was)

Thanks.
 

hauker

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I've been going through some electrical issues on my B&S engine lately and found this manual/guide:

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/sma...18-46 Riding Mower/alternator_replacement.pdf

It's got all kinds of values as to what resistance, amperage and voltage should be for the starter, alternator and all that good stuff. It's possible your starter has high resistance or something. Maybe that manual will help you test the starter.

Cool - I'll look through it and see if I get new ideas - much appreciated!
 

natenkiki2004

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Since it's a OHV engine, it's really (REALLY) easy to adjust the valves and it would be worthwhile doing even if it doesn't solve your issue.

I have a specs chart for various engines here:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/small_engine/Briggs & Stratton Engine Specs Chart.pdf
(Dropbox is down right now, check it out later)
It looks like yours is the last one under "OHV Single Cylinder".

For the actual adjustment, I enjoy watching this guy on YouTube:
( HOW TO ADJUST VALVES) FIX HARD TO START Lawn Tractor with OHV Briggs Engine- MUST SEE- Part 2/2 - YouTube
 

hauker

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Holy Cow ... the 1st part of that video is my last three weeks on film - exeactly what I've been batteling with - I will definitely adjust the gap over the weekend and see what happens.

Dropbox is indeed still down ... should I just go with the video and start at 40 thou and work my way up from there?

Thanks so much (... getting excited here ...)
 

natenkiki2004

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No problem :thumbsup: Dropbox should be back up now but if it's not for you, then here's the values you need:

Intake Valve: .003-.005"
Exhaust Valve: .005-.007"

Remember to do it with the engine cold. If my thinking is right, the exhaust one should have a much larger gap compared to those values which would cause the exhaust to not leave the engine. I could be wrong though.
 
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