Repairs LA130 -- Lots of issues

Gromit

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Greetings. This is my first post, so greetings and everything. <grin>

I bought my LA130 new about four years ago. I haven't been very happy with it. I've looked through this forum and haven't seen this issues addressed for the LA130 specifically and I don't know how similar it is to other models, so forgive me if any of them have been discussed and answered elsewhere.

Please feel free to address any and/or all of these as my lawn is getting pretty long. <grin>

1, It doesn't start. The battery is fully charged (more on this in a few). It clicks when I turn the key but the headlights don't come on (I don't need them on, but it's a symptom I assume) when IIRC they normally do when the key is turned to that position. It won't turn over even when I try to jump the starter.

That obviously is my most important problem, but since I have your attention I'm going to keep going.

2, The battery doesn't get fully charged. I'm assuming there is an alternator somewhere that needs replaced, but where is it?

3, Oh, does anyone know where I can find a repair manual online? I could probably figure some of this stuff out on my own if I knew where to find the info.

4, The parking brake thingie doesn't move. I've felt under the hood and below the mower and there is nothing holding the rods still, so I assume that there's a connection where they meet that has seized. How do I get to it?

5, How do I jump the seat switch? Using my volt meter I learned that the first and fourth pins are connected when the switch is not depressed and when the seat is depressed the connection is broken (if you haven't noticed, I'm not great at electronics so forgive me if my terminology is off). In my mind, that would mean that I could just unplug the seat and it would be fine, but I'm assuming that it's not that easy or JD would have a lawsuit on their hand if the switch came unplugged then there was an accident, so I'm guessing the other wire has something to do with it. So, which holes in the socket do I need to jump?

I know I have more questions and I'll add them here as I remember them. TIA for any help.
 

SeniorCitizen

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First on your to do list should be to remove the battery, if it's 4 years old, and take to a business that will load test it and sell you a new battery if it tests bad.

All a volt meter does when testing a battery is tell you the voltage and nothing more.
 

EngineMan

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Greetings. This is my first post, so greetings and everything. <grin>

I bought my LA130 new about four years ago. I haven't been very happy with it. I've looked through this forum and haven't seen this issues addressed for the LA130 specifically and I don't know how similar it is to other models, so forgive me if any of them have been discussed and answered elsewhere.

Please feel free to address any and/or all of these as my lawn is getting pretty long. <grin>

1, It doesn't start. The battery is fully charged (more on this in a few). It clicks when I turn the key but the headlights don't come on (I don't need them on, but it's a symptom I assume) when IIRC they normally do when the key is turned to that position. It won't turn over even when I try to jump the starter.

That obviously is my most important problem, but since I have your attention I'm going to keep going.

2, The battery doesn't get fully charged. I'm assuming there is an alternator somewhere that needs replaced, but where is it?

3, Oh, does anyone know where I can find a repair manual online? I could probably figure some of this stuff out on my own if I knew where to find the info.

4, The parking brake thingie doesn't move. I've felt under the hood and below the mower and there is nothing holding the rods still, so I assume that there's a connection where they meet that has seized. How do I get to it?

5, How do I jump the seat switch? Using my volt meter I learned that the first and fourth pins are connected when the switch is not depressed and when the seat is depressed the connection is broken (if you haven't noticed, I'm not great at electronics so forgive me if my terminology is off). In my mind, that would mean that I could just unplug the seat and it would be fine, but I'm assuming that it's not that easy or JD would have a lawsuit on their hand if the switch came unplugged then there was an accident, so I'm guessing the other wire has something to do with it. So, which holes in the socket do I need to jump?

I know I have more questions and I'll add them here as I remember them. TIA for any help.

1 You don't say what type the engine is, so post up the numbers that you will find on it, then maybe someone here can give you more info on it.

2 If the battery is four years old you need to replace it.

3 Headlights will not come on with the battery, they work off AC you need the engine to be running.

4 If you have a Briggs and stratton engine you can get the repair manual online from them.

5 The "parking brake thingie" only you can find out what is wrong by looking.

6 The alternator you will find is under the engine cover.

7 No one here will or should tell you how to jump the seat switch, its there for a good reason, if you feel that is bad then replace it.

8 Find and download the wiring diagram, that will help you out alot.

Remember you can always come back here and ask question's, but remember its harder for us to see what you are seeing with your eye's, so post up all that you can, photo's do alot so post them.
 

Rivets

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My first question is what have you been doing for the last four years. I hope that you have been doing routine maintenance. After you replace the battery go through this procedure and let us know what you find.



Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
 

Jhon

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The engine valves may need adjusted. That would make your engine hard to turn over. The boost you get from your car jump may give it that little extra power it needs. The valve adjustment fixed a similar problem for me.
 

SeniorCitizen

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3 Headlights will not come on with the battery, they work off AC you need the engine to be running.
*************************************************************************
Are you positive about that on a LA130? They burn bright on my LA135 with the engine off.
 

EngineMan

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*************************************************************************
Are you positive about that on a LA130? They burn bright on my LA135 with the engine off.

You are right......from the John Deere Tractors 100 Series

NOTE: Headlights will drain the battery rapidly if key switch is left in
headlights on position (B) with the engine off.
To turn headlights on, turn key switch to headlights on position (B).
To turn headlights off, turn key switch to STOP position (A).
Engine On
To turn headlights on, start engine, then turn key switch from run position
(C) to headlights on position (B).
To turn headlights off, turn key switch from headlights on position (B) to
run position (C).
 

oldyellr

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7 No one here will or should tell you how to jump the seat switch, its there for a good reason, if you feel that is bad then replace it.
Well, that depends on the size of mower, the type and what kind of terrain you need to mow. I've done it with all my mowers ever since they started incorporating those darn things. My front lawn is uneven and hilly and I have to use a lot of body english to maintain traction. That would make the engine cut out at the most inappropriate moments - very dangerous. Just wait, it won't be long before riding mowers have seat belts and full roll cages mandated by the lawyers.

Besides, if someone can't figure out how to bypass a seat switch, they have no business messing with the any of the wiring in the first place.
 

Jim_Inman

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Nov 17, 2011
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Gromit, have you found the fuse on the right side right in front of the battery? I'd bet that fuse is blown. I'm shocked that nobody has mentioned the fuse or the connector going to lights. That connector is in the front on the right side and could easily be disconnected and not reconnected properly if you've removed the hood and replaced it during maintenance.

My guess is that since you've not posted back in several days, you have located your problem. If not let us know where you are in troubleshooting if you care to continue this thread.

EDIT: Oops! Rivets did mention the fuse. It's the first and easiest thing to check.
 
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