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That may explain why it worked the second time, given the 50/50 chance you'd get it right if 180 degrees is the worry. I still don't understand much of this, given that all the parts appear to be symmetrical. Splines, shafts, gearset, all of it appears mostly non critical in that regard.

And now we appear to be basically done. Just a final leak check while under load is needed. Took the motor off again tonight and once more opened up the back end and gearset. The instructions for setting the timing are incredibly simplistic to the point of not making sense. You get about two...

Got seals replaced and all back together except I waited on adding the brake assembly. I wanted to check for obvious leaks first. Replaced an O-ring on the back although I think the leak was on the output side. Replaced the axle shaft seal, dust seal, and O-ring for the output shaft side. We...

I took some more pictures in case someone else has a similar mower and wants a reference. Gravely's parts manual has a diagram but it's not the entire story. backside of drum: The backing plate secures to the wheel motor with 6 socket head bolts. Gravely's parts manual claims M6. On this...

I rented a $100 7-inch 3-jaw gear puller from the auto parts store and initially had no luck. I was hammering it pretty good with the impact up to the point I thought something would break and more than once I removed it and double-checked the gear puller jaws to make sure they weren't caught on...

For some dumb reason I think I got rid of my 4' black pipe a few years ago. I'd hate to think what they cost now. I employed a small pipe in the cradle of another jack stand to prevent the hub from rotating backwards. From there I tapped the breaker bar with a ~ 3lb plastic sledge (Estwing...

Ariens/Gravely doesn't publish a service manual for this model. Our ultimate goal is to replace seals in a wheel motor. I've never seen a how-to for that but have the service manual from Hydro-Gear. So I'll ask how to remove the castle nut that presumably secures the brake drum and/or hub. Yes...

Exhibit #369 for why it's impossible for me to keep any riding mower completely functional for an entire mowing season ... because the cheapest of simple parts will bring the machine down to its knees with nary a warning. And then a few days might go by before you can diagnose. And then there's...

Yep, saw that earlier today thanks. The doc is pretty sparse actually and applies to several within the series. So I'd have to first remove it and follow whatever directions it says for the actual motor. My goal would be to disassemble as little as possible, not a full teardown necessarily...

Thanks, Mark. If I elect to replace the seals I'll keep that in mind. That's my first consideration, because disconnecting and reconnecting the hoses seems to be straightforward from initial research. I am curious however where you found there to be differences in serial # or year for this...

Google brought me here ... as far as I'm aware only Gravely refers to motor oil as hydraulic fluid. Look for 15W50 (in my case that's what the owner's manual specs) and what you find "motor" oil for sale. My interpretation is that it's a lube when used in an engine, or a power conveyance when...

Am I better off installing a seal kit or buying a new wheel motor, in terms of reliability? The motor is part # 04915500 and the seal kit (Hydro Gear 706262 HGM P SERIES) if of course much cheaper. 440 hours on the machine. (I've never replaced seals on anything involving hydraulics. I'd need a...

I don't have the TriCycler mulching accessory, but I never bag either (not that I have any sort of bagging system, which I don't.) I realize that regular clippings are already a form of "mulch" (albeit not a consistent one.) Anyway, that's my question.

On the 265, 285, and 320 (any more?) the release for the transmission is the flat lever that flops around on top of the transaxle. Its fulcrum is on the transaxle and the lever is arch-shaped. It's activated by pushing DOWN on the lever. Not up. Not left nor right. (At rest, the lever makes...

The tech manual (service manual) for my tractor isn't explicit enough for me except in one instance where they state to not mix fluids. It says to take a look at the color. If it's honey brown, add Hy Gard. If it's red, add Type F. The book doesn't say at what serial # they switched from one to...

It's either a 42" or 46" deck depending on your source for what was supposedly available for the 265 lawn tractor. It's definitely not the 38" or 48" or 50". I took a wire brush to all three spindle hub mounting locations. Two of the three look OK; the one nearest the grass exit has rust...

My real question might be, "Can Hydrostatic drivetrain "gearing" be changed, to turn the tractor into something faster since I'll no longer be using it to mow?" Spindle parts prices for mower decks that fit the Deere 265 can be eye-watering. I can't consider a complete new set. At any rate new...

engine running very rich with lots of black smoke? engine running very rough like a paint mixer jiggling around? spark plug, boot, wire, igniter, coil, whatever, all is fine? carb is clean inside and out, and adjusted, choke plate open and so on? all linkage = good? But it "Runs Like a...

for the FC420V Kawasaki engine (the only engine that came on these mowers)

These old threads are always interesting. And popular, too, since Google keeps picking them up. Do you mean the stator? But you didn't replace it, just removed and reinstalled (lawnmower whisperer?) I suppose the impacted grass you mentioned acted as a heat insulator and freaked it out. A...

The starter solenoid isn't engaging. Battery connections are clean, new and tight. The battery's at 12.6 volts currently. Same measurement at statrter post and at the wire coming off the battery that feeds the key switch. Dash lights work etc, carb relay works, main relay I can hear click also...

My father-in-law's Gravely recently had its voltage regulator replaced without being tested (shade tree mechanic friend who was "sure" that was why the battery isn't charging.) Today I downloaded from kohler.com a service manual (Kohler Courage 23 engine) and the parts manual for this machine...

Previous owner's wife ran it into a fence. Some small dents in the exhaust, the valve cover is bent, some small braided tube above the air cleaner got nicked. For the last YEAR he'd been pushing in on some bracket atop the carb with his finger to get it to run, prior to pulling the rope. Ran...

It's interesting that my issue with the same symptoms as the OP was caused by a different part. When thinking about it, I realized that sometime yesterday, additionally the brake pedal stopped functioning. It just met no resistance, apart from its return spring. I forgot about it until I pulled...

The other day the engine petered out as I was finishing a mow. RPMs just dropped off. I parked it. Day or two later I'm mowing again. No issues. And then later, it did the same thing. This time I couldn't pull the rope at all. I can slowly turn the flywheel with a socket and breaker bar...

Circa '99-'01 I don't know which John Deere this clone is. I was tasked with this repair; the blade belt was already off. After installing, I cut some grass OK but the belt never fully disengaged with the lever, which made cranking difficult. Afterwards I noticed I'd installed the belt twisted...

I have two HR215HXA Masters mowers. #1: HR 215 K1 HXA, ser# MZAM -- 6265725 KL Bought 2001, new. One day, the only drive speed available became the fastest one. The speed lever does nothing. Cable looks OK? I was able to adjust the cable so that the mower creeps forward at idle ... lever not...