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Well, I haven't been much help to this point. Again, you might check the eyelet on the ECU ground wire. Kohler had an issue with corrosion, not where the eyelet contacted the engine but where the wire made contact inside the eyelet. You might just look at it and see if there are any signs of...

I forgot to ask. Are there any trouble codes?

Is pin 22 making good contact into the ECU? If it's running on one cylinder, I'd rule out the ECU being the issue at least electrically. Although that doesn't mean it couldn't have a bad pin. When you got the light to light on the + and the - was it unplugged from the coil? You also might...

What coil trigger wire are you referring to? One lead to the ignition coil should be battery voltage and the other (pin 22) is the ECU controlled ground.

Check the plug wire. Those Bosch systems were bad about plug wires. Take it off the coil and ohm it from the boot to the end that attaches to the coil. I believe it should ohm out around 5000 ohms.

This is a common error. You don't measure each AC wire individually. You measure across them, but the total VAC should be the same. Black lead on one stator wire and red lead on the other. You should have a minimum of 28 VAC across the two. I'm guessing if you measure across the leads, you'll...

The best way to troubleshoot anything is to make sure you understand how the system is designed to work before you start.

It's a bogus website. About 6 months ago that same website was selling a 750ml of Blantons for $49. Yeah. Right.

I spoke with my EFI person and in describing your issue he's 99% sure you have a bad O2 sensor. There is a test you could do but it involves probing through the insulation on the black and purple O2 sensor wires. It really won't hurt anything if you're replacing the O2 sensor but if not, you'd...

If it takes 30 minutes for the fuse to blow, it would be doubtful it would be the stator in my opinion. When a stator shorts it typically blows a fuse as soon as the key is turned to the on position. Maybe after the stator warms and there is some expansion, the stator wire could theoretically...

Was it acting up? Unfortunately, I didn't catch anything that sounded all that unusual. Does it still smell like it's running rich? And sorry if I missed your answer to this but have you ever seen any black smoke from the exhaust? I also thought of another test involving the O2 sensor but it's...

It's good to do the TPS learn but not the end of the world if you don't. Any chance you could post a short video of it when it's misfiring?

What was the oil level after it seized? And how are you cleaning your filters? I was just curious about your actual method of cleaning the air filter.

What was the oil level after it seized? And how are you cleaning your filters?

For the average do-it-yourselfer, no question, EFI engines are harder to troubleshoot sometimes. The issues I would often run into trying to help techs troubleshoot EFI engines is, they seem to forget it's an engine. An engine comes in their shop lacking power and they immediately want to blame...

It if replaces the Kohler 12 707 01-S then it's what you need. Maybe there is more than one listing for that Stens part number but the one I found was way too expensive. The Amazon link ILENGINE provided had that actual Kohler part for $163.92. The Stens one I found was over $270.00. You can buy...

This is probably more info than you care to know but, all the small engine manufacturers got involved in the horsepower lawsuit one way or another. For some it was their own doing because they misrepresented the horsepower on their engines. Kohler pretty much told them to stick it and said feel...

You have a CV16-43527. There is no such thing as a CV16.5. That's a Craftsman marketing thing. Not a Kohler thing. If you're using Sears parts look-up, use their listing of the CV16.5 43527. It's the same thing. Sears actually got Kohler drug into a lawsuit because Sears decided to overstate the...

Due to poor management decisions, they lost most of the business from their best customer, Sears. Then they moved most of their production to Brazil. When you can't pay your bills in Brazil, they lock up your building and don't let you in until you pay. They couldn't pay.

What was the part number you used to replace the ignition module or coil? Also, the number you would be looking for on the Spark Advance module will begin, 12 584 XX. It is NLA but you might find new old stock somewhere. I didn't see ILENGINE's post about Amazon. That looks to be the best...

With the results you now have, it's probably not a relay. Normally only one went bad so if you wanted to try it, you could just get one and try it in each position. Like I mentioned, it wasn't unheard of for a Spark Advance Module or ignition module fail but it was pretty rare on a CV16. I've...

Disconnect the spark plug wire and see if the issue goes away. If it does then like DaveTN says, it could be the flywheel key. If the problem is still present, check the blade for looseness.

No hydraulic lifters on this one. They are solid. But valve lash isn't the issue.

This is from the Sear parts website. You can probably get a relay at a local parts store. Just make sure the terminals and in the same configuration and have the same numbers on each terminal.

CV16 engines with no spark issues are mostly unheard of except on Craftsman mowers. On Craftsman mowers it was fairly common. The issue was normally a bad equipment relay. There are typically 3 relays somewhere under the hood. One of those has most likely failed. I don't remember whether the...

I looked at the ECU reset instruction to refresh my memory and the only thing I did differently was instead of waiting 10 seconds, I would advise techs to wait 15 seconds. The issue I came across one time was, I was on the phone with a tech trying to help him do the reset and when I said to turn...

Yeah, you likely set those codes when you ran it with the O2 sensor disconnected. Check the manual for the ECU reset procedure to clear those codes. I don't remember that procedure off the top of my head or I'd tell you how to do it. It's pretty simple but needs to be precise. Then run it again...

Before you take the top cover off again, (and I should have thought of this before), take the rocker cover off and remove the spark plug. Turn the engine over by hand and watch the valve movement. See if the valves are opening and closing when they're supposed to. Also see if the intake valve is...

Sounds like ignition and fuel pressure are fine. It could simply be a bad O2 sensor. If you could get codes from the ECU that could help. And apologies if I missed it, but when the issue first started and you felt it was running rich, did you ever notice any black smoke. If so, how do the...

It was in your previous post that you ran the engine. I was trying to ask if you actually tried using the equipment? Make it do work so the engine has to carry a load.

Can you post a pic from the top showing both cams?

Have you tried actually using the equipment with the O2 sensor disconnected? My guess is it will lack power as I believe it might actually be running lean. To make a MIL, you'll need a test light with an incandescent bulb, not an LED. Clip it to the positive terminal of the battery and probe...

Just FYI. Make sure the washer is on the side with the compression release lever. Some early engines had a washer on both sides until the folks on the assembly line were re-educated to only put a washer on the side with the compression release. The washer is only there to keep the compression...

Do you see any black smoke when you feel it's running rich? Lean exhaust also stinks and burns eyes but there wouldn't be any black smoke. And like ILENGINE mentioned. Try running it with the O2 sensor disconnected. If it runs better don't automatically think you need a new O2 sensor. You might...

There is an intake timing mark and an exhaust timing mark on each cam gear. Could you have possibly lined up the marks on the wrong sides?

J8C was the standard Tecumseh spark plug for years and years which is basically the same as the J17LM or the resistor equivalent, RJ17LM. I've also used the J19LM and RJ19LM on Tecumseh engines with no issues.

What's going with it that makes you think it's out of time?

If you’re needing a solenoid shift starter, it’s part number is 25 098 11-S. That number is probably superseded now but that will be a good starting place.

You'll have to take the starter off more than likely. If the shaft is bent, it will be noticeable. If it's easier to take off the blower housing, you might be able to see it that way too.

Something else to check for after making sure of your connections, is to check for a bent starter shaft. A bent shaft will cause the drive gear to move in and out in relation to the flywheel ring gear. If the gear happens to stop when the bend is causing the gear to be closer to the flywheel, it...

Another vote for Toro. And if you want battery powered, Toro makes those too. I'm going to assume you were exaggerating to make a point that you wanted something powerful, but if you find something in your budget, that will mow knee high damp grass on any morning including Saturday mornings...

The Courage twin cylinder engine was a very good engine. The Courage single cylinder, not so much. It's not too uncommon to have carb issues when fuel is left to get old and stale. The DSAI ignition was something that rarely had any issues and it was the same with the DSAM ignition. ASAM...

Like IL mentioned, your engine has solid lifters. Only the Command engines had hydraulic lifters. If memory serves me correctly, the SV twin clearance is .004-.006 on both intake and exhaust.

180 lbs of compression is perfect and what that engine would have had brand new. We like to see a minimum of 150 but 140 doesn't necessarily mean you have a major problem. What does the spark plug look like on the 140 side? Does it look a lot different than the 180 side spark plug? Like was...

With everything plugged is as it would normally be, do you get any spark when cranking the engine over? I doubt there is anything wrong with the DSAM. I think you have a supply voltage issue. With the DSAM unplugged you're measuring voltage that isn't being asked to do any work. When you plug...

Yes. It will fit just fine. Kohler used to in some cases warranty that swap. You just have to make sure you wire it correctly.

Yeah, same wire harness part number so it should plug right in with no modifications. Exhaust will fit fine too.

I've added some info to my previous post if you want to look at it again.

Do you have the original spec number of the engine? Should be 69XXX. MTD normally used a pretty basic spec engine so finding a replacement shouldn't be too hard. I have an engine comparison spreadsheet I can check if you can post the original engine spec number. The spreadsheet lets me compare...

Kohler only used Nikasil on the early CV and CH 25 engines. The issue you have was typically caused by dirt ingestion. The Nikasil was supposed to stand up better to dirt ingestion but unfortunately it didn't. Kohler changed to cast iron liners on the 25 hp just like the rest of the Command...