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  1. #1

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    Scag Tiger Cub, Ingersoll 4018, Hustler X-ONE MoJack Pro

    Blade bolt removal on spindles

    Hi troops,
    I started to change the blades on my Scag Tiger Cub 48" deck today and ran into a problem. even with a 400FTLB impact wrench and the air compressor at max pressure, I couldn't remove the nut on the R/H blade bolt. I had to drill small holes progressively on opposite sides of the nut and took a chisel and hammer to split the nut to remove it. The blade on this spindle was in worse condition than the other two and I think that from striking rocks, roots, or other not easily moved objects, the bolt tightened excessively. I damaged the bolt in the process of drilling the nut to split it so I had to replace both. I have the nuts here in my parts stash but not the bolt, Scag dealer stocks them and told me that they are a common replacement part. I put a thin aircraft type washer under this nut in hopse that it will prevent what happened, time will tell!!!
    I have to raise up this machine considerably in order to get the blade bolts to clear the bottom of the spindles and fall out. My hydraulic floor jack just makes it high enough as long as I add a piese of 2 by on the lift plate. Not crazy about that combination so I put my adjustable jack stands under the machine before I crawl under it.
    Mad Mackie in CT

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  3. #2

    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    1
    Location
    Indiana
    Mower
    Scag Tiger Cat SS 61"

    Re: Blade bolt removal on spindles

    I had this on one of the blade spindle nuts on my 61" Tiger Cat SS. Ended up taking my mower to a local truck repair shop and they used a 1" drive air wrench. Spun that nut right off.

    I replaced all three nuts and put a bit of lube on them. Only tightened them by hand this time. Seems to work now...I can remove them.

  4. #3

    1,000 Post Club

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    kioti/rhino finish mower

    Re: Blade bolt removal on spindles

    Worked at a repair shop several years ago and had a Ferris come in that the blades bolts went all the way through the spindle with a nut on top. You put the nuts on finger tight and took an inch impact to remove them. 900 ft/lb 3/4 impact wouldn't touch them.
    ILLINOIS ENGINE, BEECHER CITY, IL
    BRIGGS AND STRATTON MST (MASTER SERVICE TECHNICIAN)
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  5. #4

    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    481
    Location
    Massachusetts
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    Husqvarna, Cub Cadet, MF, Craftsman

    Re: Blade bolt removal on spindles

    I have never run into to this. I have always been able to use either a breaker bar and in more recent years a 1/2 inch impact wrench. I also have a 3/4-inch impact and hope I never have to use it for this application. I always assemble with anti-sieze, so far so go.

  6. #5

    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    5,240
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    Wisconsin
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    Toro

    Re: Blade bolt removal on spindles

    For everyone out there. It is a good idea to use anti sieze on all nuts and bolts that are exposed to dirt, grass, and moisture. Our procedure is to do it on all blade nuts and bolts, plus anything that gets removed for normal maintainence. Really makes it easier down the road, or cheap insurance as we call it.

  7. #6

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    Red face Re: Blade bolt removal on spindles

    Anti-seize is good stuff but if using it on thru bolted blades I wouldn't tighten the nuts to 75 FT LBS. The use of anti-seize makes it a wet torque and overtorquing the nut will happen.
    Tomorrow I need to do a 50 HR service on my Tiger Cub and I'm going to replace the blades, hopefully the blade nuts will loosen with my 400 FT LB impact wrench. I also need to replace the blades in my wood chipper as I unknowingly put some stones thru it. I use anti-seize on the flush allen bolts on these blades. I periodically need to remind myself that it is a wood chipper and not a rock crusher!!!
    Mad Mackie in CT

  8. #7

    Join Date
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    Toro

    Re: Blade bolt removal on spindles

    I never torque any blades over 50 foot pounds.

  9. #8

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    Red face Re: Blade bolt removal on spindles

    I'm going to reduce the torque to 50 FT LBS also, but tomorrow I'll see, these blades have been on since last falls cleanup and I don't usually leave them on that long, getting lazy!!!! Gotta do something with the L/H brake band also!!!
    Mad Mackie in CT
    Last edited by Mad Mackie; 04-08-2012 at 11:08 PM. Reason: more info

  10. #9
    Coyote Machine's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    12
    Location
    Vermont
    Mower
    Scag Wildcat, 61" deck, bagger system

    Re: Blade bolt removal on spindles

    Just did the three blades on my Wildcat. Prior Pro owner had grey anti-seize on the spindle bolts but they would not budge without a 1.5' breaker bar and a pipe 'cheater'. Thought the breaker bar might break, but it didn't - fortunately. Called my dealer to make sure, before using the cheater pipe, that the blades weren't reverse, (left hand) thread. Evidently they aren't! The shop owner, a Scag dealer, told me he often has to use a Dremil tool to cut off the top nut to change/sharpen blades.
    So I wire wheeled the spindle bolts threads and applied a light coat of COPPER anti-seize, and torqued to 75 ft lbs.
    I have found that the copper anti-seize works best- I usually use Wurth brand, from when I had my foreign auto shop. It is a German manufacturer of high-end parts for the automotive trade, and their products are excellent, though pricey.
    I do agree about wet torque and its adverse effect of possibly skewing the actual torque amount- but we'll see what the outcome is when I next attempt to remove the blades.
    I may like some have mentioned consider lowering to 50-60 'lbs in future if I find the nutz too tight again. I'd rather have them somewhat over-tight than loose. Any further discussion of the 54'lb torque appreciated.

  11. #10

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    Red face Re: Blade bolt removal on spindles

    At my last blade change not long ago I decided to not use antiseize but I did install a thin 5/8" aircraft type flat washer under the nuts and torqued them to 75 FTLBS.
    I have had to drill off several of the blade nuts in the past. I drill two rows of holes in a radius pattern 180 degrees from each other and split the nut with a cold chisel. I use an air drill and cobalt drill bits.
    I would torque the bolts/nuts to no more than 50 FTLBS if using antiseize and possilby as low as 40 FTLBS.
    I usually change blades 3-4 times a season so I don't run into the corrosion problem that can set into the threads. It has been the R/H blade nut that I've had to drill off and that blade is always the most worn when I inspect them and usually past the point of being resharpened. I buy aftermarket blades in bulk on line very reasonably and my blade sharpener doesn't get used very much any more. I keep at least one new blade bolt and three nuts in my parts stash.

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