Trouble Removing Riding Lawnmower Blades

Dameon

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Hi all!

I'm trying to remove the blades from the 42" cutting deck of a Troy-Bilt Pony. The current blades were the ones that came installed, about 3 years ago. I have removed the deck from the mower so I can access the blades but I am having a very difficult time getting the blades off.

Everything I have read and watched says to remove the nut going counter-clockwise (lefty loosey) which is also the direction the blades appear to rotate. I found it somewhat odd that the nut requires a 1" socket. I am using a 15" breaker bar, and I have used liberal amounts of WD-40 over the course of about 3 days of trying to work on the mower.

I physicaly exerted myself to the point where I busted a blood vein in my eye. I can even slam the end of the breaker bar with a sledgehammer and the nut just will not move. The edges of the nut itself are even starting to get rounded off. I do not have access to any sort of pneumatic tools. I'm out of time and I am out of budget. I need help.
 

BKBrown

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Have you tried hitting straight down on the top of the blade bolt ? I'm sure you need to break the rust. If you have a torch you can heat the bolt and then use a penetrating oil, WD40 is good for many things, but isn't the best rust buster.
I hope you are using a 6 point (not 12 point) You don't want to round those corners.
Good Luck !
 

Dameon

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Yes, I am using a 6 point socket. It's just with all the attempts over the past few days the nut is starting to show some wear!

I've hit the nut hard with a hammer and I have even used a fine chisel around the edges to help break up any rust. I haven't hit it too hard though for fear of possibly causing damage or making things worse.

I don't have access to a torch.
 

BKBrown

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I know you say "out of budget", but a propane torch and some penetrating oil isn't all that expensive. I don't know where you are, but probably even a neighbor has one you could use (if you are lucky they may have an air impact wrench). :biggrin:
 

LandN

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a couple things here,make sure that when you are trying to use the breaker bar that you are not working against yourself.put yourself in the best position for maximum body torque,not just your arms,this includes push vs. pull and left hand / right hand positioning and the height at which you are working....a 15" breaker bar is (imo) not enough. i have used several feet of breaker on certain things to loosen up(mainly pipes etc.) and your sledge hammer on breaker bar is not going to work because you dont have a solid hit(to much rebound action).wd40 is not the best for loosening up rusty bolts... by the way, is this a nut or bolt? if a nut,try a hack saw of some size/shape/design and cut down the side of the nut (make sure you can get a new nut. also if you continue to use the breaker bar, keep going.... left right left right left right(less torque on the right)....... be carefull !!!!!
 

camaroz

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Maybe a smarta$$ answer but BP Blaster . Spray it on, wait a bit (1/2 hour) then try.
 

Dameon

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I found some Liquid Wrench to use on it. I am not 100% sure, but I think I saw it move just a teensy bit.

I am trying to remove the nut from the shaft, it's not a bolt. One single 1" nut with a washer holds each blade on.

I'm in rural South Carolina, so going anywhere to get anything is a pretty significant distance and time consuming trip. By "out of budget" I mean: things are tight and there ain't enough cash left after bills to buy any new toys for a project like this. Period. That's something of a sore topic at the moment...

I've shared tools with my neighbors before, but none of them have anything like a torch or impact wrench. I'm the guy with the "fancy" and "odd" tools.

Tomorrow I am going to see if I can take apart the entire pulley assembly and remove the shaft that way.

One thing that keeps going through my mind is if I am trying to remove it in the correct direction (counter-clockwise). Keep in mind, this is counter-clockwise looking at mowing deck laying upside down on the ground. The blades spin counter-clockwise as well, but I'd swear that I've had mowers where you loosened the nut in the opposite direction of blade spin, though that could just be foggy memory. I have tried turning it the other direction in the hopes of working it loose, but have had the same lack of progress there too.
 

KennyV

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It is not a left hand thread... It is regular right hand... 'almost' all mowers are right hand... Only a couple large tractor mower decks use left hand...

And like everyone else has already mentioned... WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil... it isn't even a lubricant... it makes a fair, but not a good parts wash and starting fluid...

Liquid Wrench is ok, there are a lot better...
If you can apply some heat, place real bees wax on the threads... the heat will draw it in, that works well... but don't use paraffin wax, it wont do it...
When you finally get it off... go back with anti seize, so the next time you will not have this problem... Good Luck.. :smile:KennyV
 

BKBrown

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Wasn't trying to touch a nerve with the out of budget question - I've been there too !

I wouldn't bother taking the whole assembly apart (that's just me) if it is a nut on a threaded shaft you might hit the blade on the back side turning it and that may free up some rust AND allow some of the liquid wrench a better way to get in. As someone mentioned try both directions on the nut (not because it is a left handed thread) just that ANY movement will free up some of the rust! :thumbsup:
Don't give up !
 

ILENGINE

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the standard blade nut torque is 80 ft/lb when you add grass clipping and rust i have had to heat the nut with a cutting torch and then remove nut with a 450 ft lb impact wrench because my 250 still wouldn't touch it. the blade sits on a star mount and will not twist if hit with a hammer. i don't even try my 250 impact wrench on mtd blades anymore because it is not bid enough to remove the nuts from those decks. most mtd blade nuts are 15/16 not 1 inch. you can also try wire brushing the nut and the exposed thread area at the bottom of the nut. that my help.
 
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