Troy-Bilt 13AX60TG766-42 inch rider

Thegeek

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A buddy of mine (computerless) has a Super Bronco, '06 model and has the Kohler engine. A couple of things are acting up with it. First, a 20 amp fuse blows all the time, then it won't start... Possibly the main fuse? Also, after it does run and he shuts it off, a day later the crankcase is full of gas along with the air filer. He says there is a solenoid on the carburetor, but it doesn稚 come off?.Does he need to buy a new carburetor?

Thanks in advance.

Ken
 

Rivets

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No need to buy a new carb, just needs a little TLC. Start by rebuilding the with a new needle and seat. That should fix your fuel problem. Second, the electrical problem is going to be a little harder, because you don't give us a lot of info about when it happens and the model numbers of the unit and engine. I would start by carefully and slowly inspecting each and every wire and connector. Fuses blow because there is a short somewhere. If you do not find any frayed or bad wires, post back with a more detailed description of exactly what is happening when the fuse blows. Remember we are not there to see and test, so you must be very specific in your post.
 

ILENGINE

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The solenoid unscrews from the bottom of the carb. With some of the newer troybilt mowers, MTD moves the muffler closer to the engine with no heat shields, and it overheats the solenoid causing either a solenoid failure, or melts the cover on the wire going to the solenoid.

Look to see if the wire going to the solenoid is burnt,which could be your short, blowing the fuse. Kohler came up with a solenoid replacement kit about 3 years ago the includes a heat shield for the solenoid. Requires removing the carb to install the shield along with replacing the carb mounting studs with the longer ones included in the replacement kit.

Was having warranty issues with these, because kohler was blaming it on the heat off of the muffler. MTD says it is not a heat problem, but a overcharging regulator on the Kohler engine. It boiled down to neither company would warranty the problem, and the customer had to pay for the repairs.
 

Lawnranger

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If the above advice doesn't help, find the wire harness that runs along the left side of the chassis above the deck and remove all of the wires from the plastic protective casing. Then visually inspect every single wire for cracked/pinched/worn/missing insulation, especially the red wire(s) in that portion of the harness. Inspect every inch of wire and don't overlook anything. Make sure to trace each wire to the end where it connects to something i.e. safety switch, solenoid, battery, ground, etc. If you find the problem in the harness, as I did, cut out the old section of wire, solder a new piece in and make sure to use heat shrink tubing with electrical tape on the connections. Reinstall the harness making sure it does not get pinched or rub on anything.
 

Thegeek

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Thanks ya'll. I will pass this along and keep you posted.

Thanks again. :thumbsup:
 

bcaulder

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I am having the same problem. I went though the carb with rebuild kit and all seemed fine. I ran the mower for a while and didn't have any leaks. Got up the next morning and about 1/4 of a tank of gas had leaked out the air filter housing. Is this an indication the solenoid is bad?
Thanks
 

Rivets

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No, means you did not install and seat the new seat properly. Post your engine numbers and the repair kit numbers.
 

ILENGINE

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Sometimes a piece of debris will be hiding above the seat area, and break loose, and cause another fuel leak like it wasn't repaired. I have installed repair kits, and thought I had it fixed, and about 5 minutes later you will hear this glugging noise, and the carb is overfilling. and have to take back apart, and blow the debris out of the seat.
 
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