View Poll Results: Which Engine?

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  • Briggs & Stratton

    74 93.67%
  • Tecumseh

    5 6.33%
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Thread: Engines...

  1. #31

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    reynoldston's Avatar
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    Re: Engines...

    Quote Originally Posted by Black Bart View Post
    Triple the life of that engine by using a 5-40 like T-6 instead of the 30W
    You are wearing it out running it without cylinder lubrication at start up.

    Put something that is not like molasses in it and it will last.
    I just don't see 7000 hr.s on a cheap lawn mower engine with any oil SAE 30 or 5-40 T-6 without a OH. I could be wrong because I have been before. Just why is 5-40 T6 oil better then SAE 30 Super-tech because when I pull the head off the cylinder wall aren't dry like you say? Is this something you have seen and done and really seen a difference? I really have no scientific way of knowing this.

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  3. #32

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    Re: Engines...

    Quote Originally Posted by reynoldston View Post
    I just don't see 7000 hr.s on a cheap lawn mower engine with any oil SAE 30 or 5-40 T-6 without a OH. I could be wrong because I have been before. Just why is 5-40 T6 oil better then SAE 30 Super-tech because when I pull the head off the cylinder wall aren't dry like you say? Is this something you have seen and done and really seen a difference? I really have no scientific way of knowing this.
    You are not understanding what I'm saying yes when you tear it down the heavy oil will be clinging to the cylinder but when you start the engine it is waaaaaaaaay too thick for quick lubrication.

    A motor is designed to run with a oil viscosity of 10 cst but if you start your engine at 32F a 5w is 580cst
    I don't know what 30 would be but it would be off the chart.

    Before multi grade oil most engines needed rebuilt before 70,000 miles multi grade changed that except for those who don't understand how oil works and use a straight weight oil.

    If you spend some time researching motor oil you won't use a straight 30w for anything other than pouring it on a plow to keep it from rusting.
    " THERE ARE TWO KINDS OF PEOPLE THAT OWN TRACTORS "
    THOSE THAT OWN A JOHN DEERE AND THOSE THAT WISH THEY DID

  4. #33

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    Re: Engines...

    I use AMS 100% synthetic in every thing I own and what ever the owner manual calls for. The only equipment I don't use it in is my push mower which is used very low hours and in a location I can't buy the AMS oil. As far as the log splitter goes it is a old Tecumseh which when used is used under very heavy duty use and long hours. I have tryed different oils in it and have found the best luck so far is the SAE 30. If I use a mulit weight oil in it I have to add oil on every tank full of gas. I would say the engine is getting very tired and in need of a complete over haul but being in my 70's I find oil is cheap and I am getting out of the wood cutting business. I have my own woods but find it a lot easier to have it delivered all cut and split at 60 dollars a cord then do my own any more. By the way winter is coming and time to put away the lawn mowers and get out the snow blower seeing this mornings paper is calling for a very snowy winter for NY state.

  5. #34

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    Re: Engines...

    Hey guys, honestly , just my experience mind you, the only real difference I have seen in flatheads and ohc engines is the ohc engines are slightly quieter and get more yardage to a gallon of gas. As far as dependability or starting and longevity I don't think there is a bit of difference all things being equal. Even the much ballyhooed power difference is not that great in my opinion! Cost is the greatest measurable advantage you can give one over the other, B&S usually is more affordable.

  6. #35

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    Re: Engines...

    Quote Originally Posted by reynoldston View Post
    I use AMS 100% synthetic in every thing I own and what ever the owner manual calls for. The only equipment I don't use it in is my push mower which is used very low hours and in a location I can't buy the AMS oil. As far as the log splitter goes it is a old Tecumseh which when used is used under very heavy duty use and long hours. I have tryed different oils in it and have found the best luck so far is the SAE 30. If I use a mulit weight oil in it I have to add oil on every tank full of gas. I would say the engine is getting very tired and in need of a complete over haul but being in my 70's I find oil is cheap and I am getting out of the wood cutting business. I have my own woods but find it a lot easier to have it delivered all cut and split at 60 dollars a cord then do my own any more. By the way winter is coming and time to put away the lawn mowers and get out the snow blower seeing this mornings paper is calling for a very snowy winter for NY state.
    This morning the local news was saying that here we will probably have a cold winter with a lot of snow.

    I did some painting on my snow blower and on the cab of my 430 JD.
    I changed the oil and filter installed a new wiper blade and new LP tank for the cab heater so I think I got it ready to go.
    " THERE ARE TWO KINDS OF PEOPLE THAT OWN TRACTORS "
    THOSE THAT OWN A JOHN DEERE AND THOSE THAT WISH THEY DID

  7. #36
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    Re: Engines...

    Jamesslcx: Once i did a comparison between my 13HP flatty briggs 99 muray 6 speed and my 2003 murray 16.5HP OHV briggs also with a 6 speed - 99 out ran circles around the 2003, power and fuel use - the OHV was noticeably louder as well. Possible could use a valve adjustment.

    Theres just less to go wrong with a flathead - no rockers or pushrods, easier to change headgaskets .


    I have a 85 MTD with a briggs 12HP - actually states right on the air cleaner to use SAE 30, 10w30 and 10w40 ,during specific times of the year and change it like once a month.

  8. #37

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    Re: Engines...

    Hey guys, I'm probably going to get some heat for this but in all honesty I see no need for overhead cams or overhead valves in any mower, flatheads do just fine in small engine applications. As for less emissions in ohc motors, well my flatheads seem to run just as clean again it is all about how you service your engine JMO. I've been told my Honda push mower has a timing belt! I really for my use see no need.

  9. #38
    motorrefurb's Avatar
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    Re: Engines...

    Briggs are almost always the same so you always know your way around

  10. #39

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    Re: Engines...

    Quote Originally Posted by jmurray01 View Post
    Please vote for which of the two well known engine brands you prefer, and reply telling me why if you wish.

    I'm just interested, as I own a B&S, and my friend owns a Tecumseh. We both think our engines are reliable, but both of us are biased, so I need an unbiased opinion!
    As far as I'm concerned this is a no brainer...........B&S hands down! Engines have been around since they found dirt! Parts are easy to get-even Walmart carries quite a few tune-up kits etc. I've known a couple guys that swore by their Techumseh but I don't think you're going to get parts as easily as the B&S! I think it's probably a preferrence thing. I don't work on them other than my own so I can't tell you which one is built better or uses better parts. It's sort of like the 2 Bolt main Chevy small block VS the 4 bolt main. Most folks think a chevy is a chevy and they're all the same.........not so!

  11. #40

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    Re: Engines...

    I say Briggs. Tecumseh had poor quality engines and no longer in business.

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