Recent content by LMPPLUS

I'm here in central Florida with similar humidity and many homeowners leave their mowers outside I don't think the humidity is your issue I think product quality, we sell OEM coil when we can and have few problems.

What's the actual model and serial # from under the seat ?

Have you checked to see if you are getting 12vdc to your start solenoid when the key is turned to start? If not you have a bad ignition switch or wiring issue, if you are getting voltage to solenoid and it is engaging you have bad contacts in the solenoid.

Many modern day engines on walk behind mowers don't have manual throttles, and may or may not have adjustments on the carb.

You might look at the B&S # 591378 Carb used on the models 204412 & 204432 10HP engines or the aftermarket version Stens # 520-005.

Check your safety switches.

Many of the steel pulleys are American made sold by both OEM and aftermarket suppliers, not all but many, but generally a bearing will fail long before the pulley will split.

Rickin, I don't think your blades are the problem those blades are designed for mulching and bagging that work better at mulching because they don't have a real high lift because of the serations used for mulching, try this slow your travel speed down some and keep the engine / deck speed up...

Sounds like you have a compromised head gasket.

With this carb setup it's really hard to get gas back into the crankcase oil, i'm wondering if you might have a fuel cap that the vent is plugged over pressuring the tank forcing gas out and into crankcase, just my 2 cents.

Appears that the P/N-532448354 hasn't been available since 2022, but the OEM Tuff Torq #7A646084091 is available.

These wheels are xtremley hard to get off, many times the axle will pull out of the transmission before the axle will break loose from the hub, your best chance is to heat the hub area really hot and quinch with water, doing this you also run the risk of over heating the transmission seal. Good...