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  1. #1

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    Apr 2013
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    Cub Cadet

    Recommendations on replacing spindle assembly bearings

    I have access to a Cub Cadet 1529 used riding lawn mower that belongs to my neighbor and recently the left spindle bearings froze. I removed the assembly and want to replace the bearing/oil seal and spacer. How difficult is it to re-press new bearings into the spindle assembly? I'm including an image of the parts assembly. I am planning on replacing parts 65,60 & 63

    Thank you for your assistance.

    Screenshot-1.png

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  3. #2
    harryset's Avatar
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    Cub Cadet, Craftsman and John Deere

    Re: Recommendations on replacing spindle assembly bearings

    Quote Originally Posted by cigarman61 View Post
    I have access to a Cub Cadet 1529 used riding lawn mower that belongs to my neighbor and recently the left spindle bearings froze. I removed the assembly and want to replace the bearing/oil seal and spacer. How difficult is it to re-press new bearings into the spindle assembly? I'm including an image of the parts assembly. I am planning on replacing parts 65,60 & 63

    Thank you for your assistance.

    Screenshot-1.png
    Spindles are a snap, I was just viewing a youtube video of a guy changing out his spindle bearings. I have changed mine on my Craftsman 52" deck a few times, and I would say that needing a press would be worst case scenario. You should be able to knock them out with little problem.
    Stercus Accidit

  4. #3
    Carscw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cigarman61 View Post
    I have access to a Cub Cadet 1529 used riding lawn mower that belongs to my neighbor and recently the left spindle bearings froze. I removed the assembly and want to replace the bearing/oil seal and spacer. How difficult is it to re-press new bearings into the spindle assembly? I'm including an image of the parts assembly. I am planning on replacing parts 65,60 & 63

    Thank you for your assistance.

    <img src="http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=13982"/>
    Don't forget part 64
    The only part you should have to press out would be part 64 take a old 1/2 inch extension and a hammer and knock part 64 out the end that it is close to. To put the new one in just set it in place put the old bearing in it put a socket on the bearing that is the size of the inner part of the bearing and knock it in. You will know when it's in all the way.

    Now if yours is not like the pic and you have sealed bearings like it should have then use the extension and hammer to knock them out. And a socket to put the new ones in.

    (( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))

  5. #4
    Carscw's Avatar
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    Now is when a shop tech will tell you to never do as I said. So you can take it to a shop to press them out and press the new ones in. Or you can save your money and just buy a whole new spindle assembly

    (( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))

  6. #5

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    Location
    Michigan
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    Ingersoll

    Re: Recommendations on replacing spindle assembly bearings

    I have an Ingersoll 4020 with a 48" deck. I found out that the sealed bearings are quite standard with heavier duty mowers and can be found fairly inexpensive on ebay as a set of 6. I had the middle spindle bearings showing too much play, so I was only planning on replacing that one. I unbolted the spindle housing, but could not free it up without hitting it harder than I wanted, so I just knocked out the upper and lower bearings with them still attached to the mower. It went so well, that I did the others also. It did mean that I needed to put a woodend block on the bearings and gently tap them into position. It would have been a lot easier to use a press with the housing off, but improvising really wasn't as bad as expected. The downside was the greasy bearing making a mess on the floor when it went flying out.

  7. #6

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    Re: Recommendations on replacing spindle assembly bearings

    Cigarman, Your diagram looks like the the tapered roller bearings are separate pieces. When the assemby is to gether the nut torque may (probably) determines bearing clearance. Guessing that is about .001" so lubricant can reach the roller/race interface. On older cars with rear wheel drive you had to set this clearance on the front wheel bearings or either run too loose or burn out the new bearing. Classic method is a dial indicator, but that is very difficult . Anyone know if this discussion applies, and how to help cigarman do a proper installation?

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